|
Patent Abstract
Jewelry can include a stone and a setting. The setting can include
rings, wherein at least one of the rings contacts the stone. The
rings may be in the form of chains, netting, or both. The rings
can be attached to the stone using anchor(s), so that the setting
cannot be removed from stone unless the stone, a ring, an anchor
or combination thereof is broken or, in the case of hooks, removed
only with great difficulty or irreversibly damaging the hooks (e.g.,
when separating ring and hook combinations). The configurations
for the settings and stones and methods described herein can substantially
increase the options for designing jewelry, and particularly the
use and arrangement of stones in jewelry.
Patent Claims
What is claimed is:
1. Jewelry comprising: a stone; and a setting comprising rings,
wherein at least one of the rings contacts a surface of the stone.
2. The jewelry of claim 1, wherein the rings comprise a netting.
3. The jewelry of claim 2, wherein, from a cross-sectional view
of the netting and stone, the stone lies within a cradle of the
netting.
4. The jewelry of claim 3, wherein the netting surrounds substantially
all of a perimeter of the stone.
5. The jewelry of claim 2, wherein the netting comprises a main
section, a first triangular end connected to one end of the main
section, and a second triangular end connected to an opposite end
of the main section.
6. The jewelry of claim 1, further comprising at least one anchor
that contacts the stone, wherein at least one of the rings is attached
to the at least one anchor.
7. The jewelry of claim 6, wherein the at least one anchor includes
a pin, a wire, a cap, a halo, or a combination thereof.
8. The jewelry of claim 7, wherein the pin comprises a loop, a
hook, or a combination thereof.
9. The jewelry of claim 7, wherein the wire extends completely
through the stone and includes a first end having a first loop and
a second end having a second loop, wherein the first and second
loops are spaced apart from one another.
10. The jewelry of claim 7, wherein a portion of the stone extends
completely through an annular opening of the halo.
11. The jewelry of claim 6, wherein an adhesive compound is not
used to attach the rings directly to the stone.
12. The jewelry of claim 11, wherein the adhesive compound attaches
the at least one anchor to the stone.
13. The jewelry of claim 1, wherein the rings comprise one or more
chains, wherein the one or more chains substantially surround the
stone.
14. The jewelry of claim 13, wherein: the rings comprise a first
ring and a second ring spaced apart from the first ring; the one
or more chains comprise a first chain and a second chain each having
a first end and a second end; the first ends are attached to the
first ring; and the second ends are attached to the second ring.
15. The jewelry of claim 14, wherein the rings further comprise
a feature having a first end and a second end, wherein: the feature
is a chain or netting; the first end of the feature is attached
to the first chain at a location spaced apart from the first and
second rings; and the second end of the feature is attached to the
second chain at a location spaced apart from the first and second
rings.
16. The jewelry of claim 1, wherein: the rings comprise a first
chain, a second chain, a third chain, a fourth chain, a first ring,
and a second ring spaced; the first chain and the second chain each
comprise a first end attached to the first ring, wherein the first
and second chains extend from the first ring in different directions;
the third chain and the fourth chain each comprise a first end attached
to the second ring, wherein the third and fourth chains extend from
the second ring in different directions; the first and second rings
are spaced apart from each other; and the second ends of the first,
second, third, and fourth chains are attached together near a common
point so that the first, second, third, and fourth chains fit snuggly
against the stone.
17. The jewelry of claim 16, wherein: the rings further comprise
a third ring, a fourth ring, and a fifth ring: the third ring is
attached to the second ends of the first and third chains; the fourth
ring is attached to the second ends of the second and fourth chains;
and the fifth ring is attached to the third and fourth rings.
18. The jewelry of claim 16, wherein the rings further comprise
additional rings and pairs of chains similar to the first and second
rings and the first, second, third, and fourth chains, wherein second
ends of the pairs of the chains are attached together near the common
point.
19. The jewelry of claim 16, wherein: the rings further comprise
a fifth chain; a first end of the fifth chain is attached to the
first ring or first chain; and the second end of the fifth chain
is attached to the second ring or third chain.
20. The jewelry of claim 1, wherein the rings are attached to the
stone without the use of an adhesive compound or a pin or wire extending
at least partially into the stone.
Patent Description
RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. .sctn.
119 (e) to U.S. patent application Ser. No. 60/527,585 entitled
"Jewelry Including Stones and Rings and Methods of Making the
Same" by Camargo et al. filed Dec. 5, 2003, and is related
to U.S. patent application Ser. No. ______ entitled "Method
of Making Jewelry Including Stones and Rings" by Camargo et
al. filed on the same date as this application. All applications
recited in this paragraph are assigned to the current assignee hereof
and incorporated herein in their entirety by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The invention relates in general to jewelry and methods
of making the same, and more particularly, to jewelry including
stones and chains attached to stones and methods of making the jewelry.
RELATED ART
[0003] Jewelry can include stones that are presented in many different
ways, such as with chains or netting. When jewelry includes stones
with chains or netting, the stones are typically mounted in a setting,
which in turn is connected to the chains or netting. The chains
or netting are part of the setting for the stone. The chains or
netting typically lie lateral to the stone as to not contact the
stone or "hide" the stone from someone (an observer) looking
at the jewelry when worn by another person.
[0004] One example of the previously mentioned setting includes
a crimped piece of metal that has a surface that generally conforms
to a surface of the stone. The crimped piece of metal is formed
by placing a hard piece of metal over the stone and pounding the
metal down around the stone. The stone is attached to the crimped
piece of metal using an adhesive compound (e.g., jewelry glue).
The adhesive compound holds the stone in place, and the chains or
netting are attached to the crimped piece of metal, not the stone.
[0005] Another example of the setting includes a piece of metal
with prongs. The metal can be crimped as described previous. After
the stone is mounted on the piece of metal, the prongs are bent
to hold the stone in place. Chains and netting can then be attached
to the piece of metal, not the stone.
[0006] In both instances, the chains or netting are not part of
the setting for the stone. Further, the chains or netting may not
contact any part of the stone. Such constraints limit the freedom
of jewelry designers to design jewelry using stones with chains
or netting.
[0007] Another presentation of a stone in jewelry includes wrapping
a stone with a piece of solid core wire. The setting for the stone
is being created as the wire is wrapped around the stone. Reworking
the setting using this method can be very difficult and may sometimes
be impossible. The solid core wire is essentially fixed in position
and does not allow any significant movement of the wire without
risking permanent changes in the shape formed by the wire. In other
words, the wire is to remain in a fixed position. Movement of the
wire may significantly alter the presentation and diminish the value
of the jewelry.
SUMMARY
[0008] Jewelry can include a stone and a setting. The setting can
include rings, wherein at least one of the rings contacts the stone.
The rings may be in the form of chains, netting, or both. The rings
can be attached to the stone using anchor(s), so that the setting
cannot be removed from stone unless the stone, a ring, an anchor
or combination thereof is broken or, in the case of hooks, removed
only with great difficulty or irreversibly damaging the hooks (e.g.,
when separating ring and hook combinations).
[0009] The configurations for the settings and stones described
herein can substantially increase the options for designing jewelry,
and particularly the use and arrangement of stones in jewelry. Some
of those chain or netting configurations include shelling, netting,
and banding. Other configurations are possible, and therefore, the
configurations described herein are to be construed as exemplary
and not limiting to the present invention.
[0010] With all of the possible options, jewelry designers are
not constrained by the limitations of the fixed settings described
in the related art section. After reading this specification, skilled
artisans will appreciate that the design of jewelry, particularly
with stones, may only be limited by the designer's imagination.
[0011] The foregoing general description and the following detailed
description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive
of the invention, as defined in the appended claims.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0012] The present invention is illustrated by way of example and
not limitation in the accompanying figures.
[0013] FIG. 1 includes an illustration of a netting that can be
used as part of a setting for a stone.
[0014] FIG. 2 includes an illustration of fabricating a portion
of the netting of FIG. 1.
[0015] FIGS. 3-6 include illustrations for making jewelry including
a stone and the netting of FIG. 1.
[0016] FIG. 7 includes an illustration of a cross-sectional view
of the jewelry at sectioning line 7-7 in FIG. 6.
[0017] FIGS. 8-13 include illustrations of alternative embodiments
using the netting.
[0018] FIGS. 14-15 include illustrations for making a banded briolette.
[0019] FIGS. 16-23 include illustrations for jewelry in accordance
with a shelling technique.
[0020] FIG. 24 includes an illustration of an alternative embodiment
using a halo.
[0021] FIGS. 25 includes illustrations of a front-view and the
side view of an earring comprising stones having shell-type settings
connected by netting.
[0022] Skilled artisans appreciate that elements in the figures
are illustrated for simplicity and clarity and have not necessarily
been drawn to scale. For example, the dimensions of some of the
elements in the figures may be exaggerated relative to other elements
to help to improve understanding of embodiments of the present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0023] Jewelry can comprise a stone and a setting. The setting
can include rings, wherein at least one of the rings contacts the
stone. The rings may be in the form of chains, netting, or both.
The rings can be attached to the stone using anchor(s), so that
the setting cannot be removed from stone unless the stone, a ring,
an anchor or combination thereof is broken or, in the case of hooks,
removed only with great difficulty or irreversibly damaging the
hooks (e.g., when separating ring and hook combinations). The configurations
for the settings and stones and methods described herein can substantially
increase the options for designing jewelry, and particularly the
use and arrangement of stones in jewelry.
[0024] In some embodiments, jewelry can be made where part of the
setting for a stone can include a chain or netting. Many different
types of chain or netting configurations are possible. Some of those
chain or netting configurations includes shelling, netting, and
banding. Other configurations are possible, and therefore, the configurations
described herein are to be construed as exemplary and not limiting
to the present invention.
[0025] Many options are available with methods of making the jewelry.
In one embodiment the method may include attaching an end of a chain
or netting to an anchor, placing the chain or netting along a surface
of a stone, and attaching another end of the chain or netting to
the same or different anchor. In one specific embodiment, chains
may be used and have ends attached near a common point. In another
specific embodiment, netting may be wrapped substantially around
the perimeter of a stone, and opposite ends of the netting may be
attached together.
[0026] With all of the possible options, jewelry designers are
not constrained by the limitations of the fixed settings described
in the related art section. After reading this specification, skilled
artisans will appreciate that the design of jewelry, particularly
with stones, may only be limited by the designer's imagination.
[0027] A few terms are defined or clarified to aid in understanding
the descriptions that follow. The term "attached" and
its variants, with respect to chains and netting, means that a chain
or netting cannot be removed from a stone unless at least one of
the stone, ring(s), loop(s), hook(s), chain(s), or netting(s) is
broken or only with great difficulty or irreversibly damaging the
hooks (e.g., when separating ring and hook combinations).
[0028] The term "chain" is intended to mean a set of
links or rings that can be oriented to extend in substantially one
direction. Effectively, a chain is a single row of links or rings.
[0029] When referring to rings, the term "directly attached"
and its variants are intended to mean ring(s), loop(s), hook(s),
chain(s), or netting(s) are attached to one another using a single
ring, and the term "indirectly attached" and its variants
are intended to mean ring(s), loop(s), hook(s), chain(s), or netting(s)
are attached to one another using a more than a single ring. For
example, a first chain has a link lying within a first ring, a second
chain has a link lying within a second ring, and the first and second
rings, but not the first and second chains, lie within a third ring.
The first chain is directly attached to the first ring but is indirectly
attached to the second chain and the second and third rings. The
second chain is directly attached to the second ring but is indirectly
attached to the first chain and the first and third rings.
[0030] The term "link" is intended to mean substantially
identical repeating rings along a length of a chain.
[0031] The term "netting" is intended to mean a set of
rings (which may or may not include links) or a mesh that extends
in at least two directions. A pair of chains can be connected together
by rings to form netting. Netting may or may not include stones
incorporated within the set of rings. Netting and mesh can be used
interchangeably.
[0032] The term "observer side" is intended to mean the
side of jewelry that is seen typically by the public when the jewelry
is worn. Jewelry may have more than one observer side.
[0033] The term "ring" is intended to mean a unit within
a chain or netting. Rings can be opened or closed and may have a
variety of shapes including circles, ovals, oblong or elongated
pieces, polygons, and the like. A jump ring is a type of ring that
is an element used to connect chain(s) netting(s), loop(s), other
ring(s), etc. to one another. For example, link(s) of chain, netting(s),
loop(s), other rings, or the like may be placed within an open jump
ring before it is closed. Chains or netting may include no jump
rings, consist only of jump rings, or some jump rings (i.e., not
solely jump rings).
[0034] The term "setting" is intended to mean a structure
that comprises one or more parts that allow a stone to be attached
to another part of a piece of jewelry.
[0035] As used herein, the terms "comprises," "comprising,"
"includes," "including," "has," "having"
and any variations thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive
inclusion. For example, a method, process, article, or apparatus
that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to
only those elements but may include other elements not expressly
listed or inherent to such method, process, article, or apparatus.
Further, unless expressly stated to the contrary, "or"
refers to an inclusive or and not to an exclusive or. For example,
a condition A or B is satisfied by any one of the following: A is
true (or present) and B is false (or not present), A is false (or
not present) and B is true (or present), and both A and B are true
(or present).
[0036] Also, use of the "a" or "an" are employed
to describe elements and components of the invention. This is done
merely for convenience and to give a general sense of the invention.
This description should be read to include one or at least one and
the singular also includes the plural unless it is clear that it
is meant otherwise.
[0037] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms
used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one
of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. All
publications, patent applications, patents, and other references
mentioned herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety.
In case of conflict, the present specification, including definitions,
will control. In addition, the methods, jewelry, and examples are
illustrative only and not intended to be limiting.
[0038] To the extent not described herein, many details regarding
specific portions of the jewelry and processes for making it are
conventional and may be found in textbooks and other sources within
the jewelry arts.
[0039] Reference is now made in detail to the exemplary embodiments
of the invention, examples of which are illustrated in the accompanying
drawings. Wherever possible, the same reference numbers will be
used throughout the drawings to refer to the same or like parts
(elements).
[0040] Starting materials are addressed before proceeding to specific
designs for the jewelry and methods of making them. Stones used
for the jewelry can be nearly any material. Non-limiting examples
can include birthstones and gemstones (diamonds, rubies, emeralds,
sapphires, etc.), man-made or processed materials (zirconia, glass
(clear or colored), alumina, plastics, etc.), pearls, ivory, rocks
(opals, turquoise, Petoskey stones, etc.), and the like. The stones
may be transparent, translucent, opaque, or any combination thereof.
Although not required, the stones are typically harder than the
materials attached to them, including pins, wires, caps, halos,
loops, rings, chains, or netting.
[0041] The pin(s), wire(s), cap(s), halo(s), loop(s), ring(s),
chain(s), netting(s) or any combination thereof may include one
or more materials. Some non-limiting examples of the materials can
include gold (yellow or white), silver, platinum, copper, plastic,
zinc, nickel, tin, iron, alloys (e.g., brass, bronze, stainless
steel, etc.), and the like. Although not limiting, malleable metals
(including alloys) can be used and may include precious metals,
such as gold (yellow or white), silver, or platinum. Chains may
be available in a number of conventional styles, such as cable chain,
curb chain, and the like.
[0042] Adhesive compounds, such as jewelry glue, are conventional.
All soldering may be performed using any one of a number of conventional
techniques and can include electronic or laser soldering.
[0043] As previously mentioned, there is nearly a limitless number
of combinations of shapes, sizes, and materials for the stones,
pins, wires, loops, caps, halos, rings, chains, and nettings. The
combinations can allow for jewelry designs, and particularly settings
for stones, that have previously not been possible. Below are detailed
descriptions for netting, banding, and shelling techniques and designs.
Clearly other designs are possible, and therefore, the descriptions
below are not to be construed narrowly.
[0044] Netting can include a set of rings that are fabricated to
conform to or mimic the shape of the stone. Some of the rings may
be in the form of chains (series of rings). In one embodiment, the
netting can be created to fit to the stone before the netting is
attached to the stone. The netting will vary depending on the shape
of the stone and the desired appearance of the netting. All jump
rings may be used or a combination of jump rings and chains may
be used.
[0045] FIG. 1 includes an illustration of one non-limiting example
of netting 10. A specific fabrication method for the netting is
given before addressing other embodiments. The netting in FIG. 1
includes two triangular ends 12 and 14 and a main section 16. The
triangular ends 12 and 14 and the main section 16 may include chains
162 and jump rings 122.
[0046] One or both of the triangular ends 12 and 14 may be fabricated
before the main section 16. During fabrication, closed jump rings
may be placed into an open jump ring. After placement, the open
jump ring is closed. As used hereinafter, closing a open jump ring
may be performed by: (1) placing the ends of the open jump ring
close to each other so that rings within that jump ring cannot be
removed without moving the ends of such jump ring apart from each
other or (2) soldering the ends of the open jump ring together.
After reading this specification, skilled artisans can determine
which type of closing procedure to use based on their specific applications.
The fabrication procedure for the triangular ends 12 and 14 is repeated
until the triangular shape completed.
[0047] The main section 16 has a shape that similar to a hammock.
The lengths of the inner rows 164 are longer than the lengths of
the outer rows 166. Chains 162 have ends connected at jump rings
122 along the inner rows 164. Other than the chains 162, the rest
of the main section 16 comprises jump rings.
[0048] The fabrication can start with the chains 162 and inner
rows 164, and then proceed to the outer rows 166. Two jump rings
22 (which are substantially similar to jump rings 122) may be attached
to the two jump rings 122 of the triangular end 12 as shown in FIG.
2. The jump ring 22, a closed jump ring 24, and a link 26 of chain
162 are inserted into open jump ring 28. The open jump ring 28 is
then closed. The process is continued for the other inner row 164.
Note that the entire length one of the inner rows 164 may be fabricated
before the other, both inner rows 164 may be fabricated so that
the lengths of both rows 164 are kept substantially the same, or
any combination thereof. Two jump rings 122 may be used to connect
the inner rows 164 of main section 16 to the other triangular end
14.
[0049] Referring to FIG. 1, the two outer rows 166 of jump rings
122 can be formed in a similar manner to the two inner rows 164.
Closed jump rings can be placed into open jump rings and the rings
are closed. Note that the inner rows 166 will lie closer to the
perimeter of the stone, and the outer rows 164 will lie closer to
the center of the stone. Therefore, each of the lengths of the outer
rows 166 is shorter than each of the lengths of the inner rows 164.
In one embodiment, the fabrication of the inner rows 164 is completed
before the fabrication of the outer rows 166. The entire inner rows
164 may be fabricated before the outer rows 166 or the inner rows
164 may be fabricated so that they do not fall behind the fabrication
of the corresponding portions of the outer rows 166. Although not
required, two jump rings 122 lie along the outer rows 166 and outer
perimeter of the triangular ends 12 and 14 to improve the integrity
of the netting 10. In another embodiment, the two jump rings 122
along the outer rows 166 may be replaced by a double chain. In still
another embodiment, only a single set of jump rings or single chains
(e.g., not double chains) may lie along the outer rows 166. Any
one or more of the inner rows 164 may have single, double, etc.
sets of rings or chains along its (their) length.
[0050] At corners 18, a jump ring 122 along the outer row 164 is
connected to two jump rings 122 along the inner row 166. Depending
on the shape of the stone, more than two jump rings 122 along the
outer row 166 may be connected to a jump ring 122 along the inner
row 164. Note that all the jump rings 122 that are only connected
to other jump rings 122 along the outer row 166 may be the same
size. FIG. 1 helps to illustrate the connections between the inner
and outer rows 164 and 166, and therefore, is not drawn to scale.
[0051] Many different variations may be possible for forming the
netting. The exact order of connecting items is typically not critical.
Different size jump rings may be used in the different sections
or different rows. Also within each of the sections or rows, different
sized jump rings can be used. Further, chains may lie long the length
of any one or more of the inner and outer rows 164 and 166. The
triangular ends 12 and 14 are not required and one or both may be
replaced by a wire or other shaped piece (e.g., partially spherical
end for the netting 10 instead of the triangular ends 12 and 14)
that is inserted through the rings at the end of the main section
16 and a loop (not shown). Different combinations of materials for
the jump rings and chains also allow more options to a designer.
To list all of the variations would be nearly impossible. After
reading this specification, skilled artisans will be able to design
and fabricate netting to meet their needs or desires.
[0052] In FIG. 3, the stone 32 can be prepared for the netting
10. In one embodiment, a hole 34 may be drilled completely through
the stone 32. In order to reduce the appearance of the hole 34,
it may be drilled near one of the ends of the stone 32 as illustrated
in FIG. 3.
[0053] A wire 42 may be passed through the hole 34 with loops 44
formed from portions of the wire 42 as illustrated in FIG. 4. The
ends of the wire 42 may be wrapped around portions of the wire 42
between the loops 44 and the stone 32. Remaining portions of the
wire 42 may be cut. Alternatively, the loops 44 may be soldered
into position with the ends of the wire 42 cut before or after the
soldered is performed. In one embodiment, one of the loops 44 may
be formed before the wire 42 is inserted through the hole, and the
other loop 44 may then be formed. Regardless of the order of formation
of the loops 44, the loops 44 and wire 42 form anchors for the netting
10. The loops 44 are substantially stable and able to withstand
stress that may occur during the fabrication process (so that the
netting fits snugly against the stone 32, if desired) and during
normal use of the jewelry.
[0054] In FIG. 5, one of the loops 44 and a ring at triangular
end 12 of netting 10 are inserted into an open jump ring, and the
open jump ring is closed to form closed ring 52. The netting 10
is then placed, or more specifically in this embodiment, wrapped
around the stone 32 as illustrated by the arrow in FIG. 5. The netting
10 should contact and be snug around the stone 32. In FIG. 6, an
open jump ring at triangular end 14 of netting 10 is inserted into
the other loop 44, and the open jump ring is closed to form ring
62 to form a substantially completed piece. FIG. 7 illustrates a
cross-sectional view of the netting 10 including the location of
jump rings 122 along the inner and outer rows 164 and 166 and one
of the chains 162. Note that the stone 32 lies within a cradle 72
of the netting 10.
[0055] The wire 42, loops 44, and the netting 10 form a setting
for the stone 32. Stone 32 cannot be removed from the setting without
breaking the stone 32, loops 44 or wire 42, or netting 10. The chains
162 and jump rings 122 within the netting 10 may have limited fluid
motion and do not have a hard, unyielding appearance of a stone
if it were wrapped using solid core wire. The loops 44 and rings
within the netting 10 allow for a wide variety of points from which
to attach the piece to other portions of jewelry, including necklaces,
bracelets, other netting, and the like.
[0056] In alternative embodiments, the wire-loops combination in
FIGS. 5 and 6 is not used to secure the netting 10 to the stone
32. In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 8, a hole 82 may be drilled
partially through the stone 32. A wire 84 may be inserted in the
hole 82 and secured in place using an adhesive compound, such as
jewelry glue. The end of the wire 84 outside the stone 32 may be
twisted to form a loop 86. Jump rings 88 can be used to secure the
netting 10 to the loop 86. The wire 84, including loop 86, is an
example of a single anchor used in the setting.
[0057] In the embodiments illustrated in FIGS. 9 and 10, a cap
92 and 102, such as pieces of crimped metal, can replace the wire-loop
combinations. The caps 92 and 102 may or may not have pins (not
shown) extending from the apex 94 and 104, respectively, down toward
the stone 32. If the pin is present, a hole (not shown) may be drilled
into the stone 32 to hold the pin. An adhesive compound may or may
not be used to secure the cap 92 or 102 to the stone 32. In FIG.
9, attaching loops 96 for the netting 10 are space away from the
apex 94, and in FIG. 10, attaching loop 106 lies at or near apex
104. Loop 98 or 106 may be used to attach the piece to other portions
of the jewelry.
[0058] In still another embodiment, multiple wire-loop combinations
can be used. FIG. 11 includes an illustration of a perspective view
of a portion of a stone 112. Holes 114 can be drilled into the stone
112. Pins 116 are inserted into the holes 114. Each of the pins
116 can be substantially identical to the wire 84-loop 86 combination
as illustrated in FIG. 8. The pins 116 may be held in place by an
adhesive compound (not shown). Alternatively, a tap-and-dye set
can be used for forming threads (not shown) along the shafts the
pins 116 and within the holes 114. The pins 116 can be secured to
the stone by screwing them into the holes 114. After the pins 116
are in place, netting (not shown) can be place over them. A pin
116 and ring(s) within the netting are placed into an open jump
ring, which is subsequently closed to attach the pin 116 to the
netting. The procedure may be repeated for other pins 116 and rings
of the netting. In this embodiment, the pins 116 act as multiple
anchors for the netting. When multiple pins 116 are used, all or
just some of the pins 116 may be attached to netting.
[0059] In yet another embodiment, the pins 116 may be replaced
by hooks, such as j-hooks (cane-shaped pieces) 121 as shown in FIG.
12. The j-hooks can act as multiple anchors and be attached to the
stone 112 using any of the methods used for the pins 116. After
the j-hooks 121 are in place, the netting (not shown) can be placed
over the j-hooks 121. The netting can be worked into place so that
at least some of the j-hooks 121 and rings are engaged in a manner
similar to Velcro.TM.. Similar to the pins 116, not all of the j-hooks
121 need to be used (attached with one or more rings). The attachment
of the netting may be completed at this point, or the j-hooks 121
can be bent laterally (e.g., twisted) or bent further (to close
or nearly close the j-hook 121 to form a loop) to secure better
the netting. In other embodiments, other shapes of hooks are possible.
For example, the hooks may be in the shape of a "Y" (similar
to an anchor) or a grappling hook.
[0060] Note that soldering between the hooks and netting is not
required. The use of hooks may require precise placement of the
netting because having to rework the netting after attachment may
be difficult, if not impossible. However, use of commercially available
precision placement equipment may allow the placement of the netting
to substantially reduce the likelihood of needing to rework netting
placement. The use of the hooks may be well suited for jewelry fabrication
by machines because the machines can have the repeatable precise
capability, and soldering (a fabricating step) may be eliminated.
[0061] In another embodiment, no pins, hooks, holes in the stone,
or adhesive compounds may be used. More particularly, the rings
may be attached to the stone without the use of an adhesive compound
or a pin or wire extending at least partially into the stone. FIG.
13 includes an illustration where netting 130 surrounds substantially
all of the perimeter of the stone 132. The netting 130 can be similar
to the main section 16 of netting 10 but does not have the triangular
ends 12 and 14. The main section is continued until the netting
130 can cover the perimeter of the stone 132.
[0062] Regarding fabrication of the netting 130, the inner row(s)
of the netting 130 are formed at the same time or before corresponding
portions of outer rows of the nettings. After the netting has been
fabricated to conform to the shape of the stone, the netting 130
is wrapped so that the netting substantially surrounds the perimeter
of the stone 132. Opposite end of the netting 130 are attached together
to form a setting for the stone 132. The ends may be attached together
using ring(s), a wire, a combination of rings and wire, or the like.
From a cross-sectional view, the stone 132 lies within a cradle
(not shown) of the netting 130. In FIG. 13, the opposite ends of
the netting are connected together using jump rings.
[0063] In still a further embodiment, the netting may include plastic.
The plastic netting may be pre-fabricated or may be shaped to the
piece similar to the chains and jump rings. In still another embodiment,
the plastic netting may be attached and heated to increase the tension
in the netting (similar to shrink wrap). The plastic netting may
be set of rings or a single piece of plastic mesh.
[0064] Note that in many of the embodiments, jump rings used to
attach the ends of the netting to itself or to loops or pins may
be replaced by wire. Also, one or more wires, chains, set of jump
rings, or the like may be attached to the netting and extend across
some of the exposed face (not covered by the perimeter netting)
of the stone. In one embodiment, the additional wires, chains, or
sets of jump rings may be used as part of the setting, as ornamentation
(e.g., lie along the observer side of the stone), or a combination
thereof.
[0065] The orientation of the netting can be changed so that the
netting appears to be a sash around the stone. The sash appearance
can be achieved by orienting the length of the netting to extend
between the front (i.e., observer side) to the back of the stone
rather than along the perimeter of the observer side.
[0066] In many embodiments, the setting for the stone can comprise
netting that surrounds at least half of the perimeter of the stone.
This helps to keep the stone from popping out of the netting. In
the embodiment of FIG. 6, the netting 10 surrounds 2/3 to 5/6 of
the perimeter of the stone 32. In the embodiment of FIG. 13, the
netting 130 surrounds substantially all of the perimeter of the
stone 132. After reading this specification, skilled artisans appreciate
that the netting may surround less than half of the perimeter of
the stone.
[0067] Banding is similar to netting, but is typically easier to
perform compared to netting. With banding, chain(s) can be used
to highlight the stone. Unlike the netting embodiments above, where
the relative positions of the netting and stone are set more firmly
(but still allow some fluid motion), the banding can allow more
movement of the chain(s) relative to the stone. In one embodiment,
the stone 32 and hole 34 in FIG. 3 may be used as a starting point.
A chain 142, as illustrated in FIG. 14, can be fabricated (as a
row of jump rings or links) or cut (if the chain is already made)
so that its length extends from near the hole 34 on one side of
the stone 32, around the perimeter of the stone 32 to the hole 34
on the other side of the stone. A ring at or near one end of the
chain is placed onto a wire 144, and the wire 144 can be twisted
to form a loop 146. The other portion of the wire 144 is fed through
the hole 34. A ring at or near the other end of the chain 142 is
placed onto the wire 144. This other end of the wire 144 can be
twisted to form another loop 146. Extra lengths of the wire 144
may be cut. At this point, a banded stone has been formed.
[0068] Optionally, further processing can be performed on the banded
stone as illustrated in FIG. 15. A closed ring 152 and one of the
loops 146 may be placed into an opened jump ring that is then closed
to form closed ring 154. The same procedure is repeated for the
other loop 146 and other closed ring 154.
[0069] Again, many options exist for different shapes, sizes, and
materials and combinations thereof. Many of the alternatives used
for securing the netting as described in FIGS. 8-12 may also be
used for banding.
[0070] Shelling can include a setting where chains, at one end,
are attached together or near a common point, and at least some,
if not all, of the chains diverge from that common point. Between
the two ends of any one of the chains, that chain may or may not
be connected to other chains or other parts of the jewelry.
[0071] In one embodiment of shelling, the stone 32 as illustrated
in FIG. 4 may provide a starting point in the process. First end(s)
of one or more chains 161 may be placed on an open ring 163 as shown
in FIG. 16. A closed ring 165 may be placed on the open ring 163,
and the open ring 163 closed to form ring 173 as illustrated in
FIG. 17. This pattern of chains 161 and rings 165 and 173 may be
repeated any number of times.
[0072] One of the closed rings 165 and one of the loops 44 can
be placed in another open ring 182 as illustrated in FIG. 18. That
other open ring 182 can be soldered closed to form closed ring 192
in FIG. 19. More or fewer rings and ring-chain sets may be used
compared to what is shown in FIG. 19.
[0073] In another embodiment, the closed ring 165 may be replaced
by link(s) of chain(s). In still another embodiment (not shown),
closed ring 165 may be omitted and one of the loops 44 substituted
in its place. In this manner, the shelling can be attached to the
stone 32 as it is fabricated.
[0074] The procedure for the other loop 44 (not shown in FIGS.
16-19) along the opposite side of the stone 32 is substantially
identical. Note that intermediate rings (e.g., closed rings 173)
between ring-chain sets may be omitted or additional intermediate
rings may be used between each pair of ring-chain sets. To list
all of the alternatives would be nearly impossible.
[0075] Referring to FIG. 20, an open jump ring 202 may be used
to connect the other ends (e.g., second ends) of chains 161 lying
along one side of the stone 32. The open jump ring can be closed
to form closed ring 212 in FIG. 21. The same procedure may be repeated
for the other side of the stone 32, so that another closed ring
212 (not shown in FIG. 21) connects the other ends of chains lying
along the other side of the stone 32.
[0076] In one embodiment, the positions of the two rings 212 on
each side of the stone 32 cannot touch each other. Those two rings
212 are pulled snug and placed into a jump ring 222 in FIG. 22.
The jump ring 222 is then closed to form a closed ring 232 as illustrated
in FIG. 23. Note that the wire 42, including loops 44, acts as an
anchor to allow pressure to be applied so that the chains 161 can
be snuggly fitted to the stone 32 during the attaching process using
jump ring 222. In another embodiment, the two rings 212 may touch
each other.
[0077] At the point in the process, in one embodiment, a substantially
finished piece of jewelry has been formed. In the finished piece,
chains 161 are interconnected by rings to form the shelling for
the stone 32. The chains 161 have limited movement, but are more
fluid (in movement) compared to wrapping the stone with a single
piece of wire. The shelling is part of the setting, and the stone
32 cannot be removed from the shelling unless any one or more of
the stone, rings, loops, or chains are broken.
[0078] In another embodiment (not shown), pairs of chains do not
need to be connected to the same ring for shelling. The chain pattern
can alternate with the rings. More specifically, a ring closest
to one of the loops 44 may have all chains within that ring lying
along one side of the stone 32. The next ring having chain(s) may
have its chain(s) lying along the opposite side of the stone 32.
In this manner, the chains can be alternating front-back-front-back
for a series of rings attached to that same loop 44.
[0079] A number of options available for the netting 10 may be
used for shelling. Similar to netting 10, shelling can be asymmetric
with respect to the stone 32. The orientation of the shelling may
be changed. The shelling may be rotated laterally (loops 44 lying
along front and back of stone 32 instead of the sides) or vertically
(common point lying at the side or top of the stone 32 instead of
the bottom as shown in FIG. 22. Other positioning is possible.
[0080] In another shelling embodiment, a "halo" may replace
the wire 42 and loops 44. The halo has an annular opening through
which a portion of the stone may be placed completely through. The
halo forms an anchor that does not require a cap, an adhesive compound,
or a hole to be drilled into a stone. Referring to FIG. 24, the
halo 242 may be a chain in the form of links or jump rings. Alternatively,
the halo 242 may include solid ring (not shown) with or without
loops. The solid ring may include notches or other features to help
to keep the chains or jump rings from moving too much. In the embodiment
illustrated in FIG. 24, chains 161 may be attached to the halo 242.
The other ends of the chains may be attached using ring 244 (e.g.,
ends of chains inserted into an open ring before it is closed).
Halos may also be used with netting and banding.
[0081] In an alternative embodiment, an adhesive compound can be
used to achieve jewelry having chains, netting, or a combination
of both as part of the setting. The adhesive compound may be applied
to the stone, chains, netting or any combination thereof. The chains,
netting, or combination are placed onto the stone and can be held
in place until the adhesive compound has set or been cured. Many
different adhesive compounds may be used and the actual compound
used is not critical. Jeweler's glue is commonly used in jewelry.
Radiation-activated (e.g., ultraviolet radiation curable) adhesive
compounds may also be used. Generally, the adhesive should have
good bonding strength and be transparent, although these characteristics
are not required. After reading this specification, skilled artisans
will be capable of selecting adhesive compound(s) to meet their
desires. Holes in the stone and pins or wires are not required.
Just like the other embodiments described herein, the chains, netting,
or combination thereof can be the setting for the stone and allow
a greater number of attachment points to other parts of the jewelry
compared to conventional settings for stones.
[0082] Other combinations of rings and chains can be made to form
other elements for jewelry. Netting, banding, and shelling are merely
examples and not meant to limit the present invention.
[0083] Regardless whether the finished piece includes one or more
of the netting, banding, or shelling, the finished piece may be
incorporated with other articles to form jewelry, such as a necklace,
earring, bracelet, brooch, etc. Any of the netting, banding, and
shelling can be used in tying stones together. Jump rings between
chains or other jump rings on different stones or between loops
of different stones can be used. A plurality of the finished pieces,
whether the same or different types, can be part of the jewelry.
[0084] FIG. 25 includes illustrations of front and side views of
an earring 250, which is an example of jewelry. The earring 250
includes two stones 251 and 253 with shelling 252 and 254 and netting
256 in between. The netting 256 may include jump rings, chains,
or combinations thereof. The upper stone 253 with shelling 254 is
attached to the hook 260 using a ring at location 262 and to the
netting 256 at locations 264. The lower stone 251 with shelling
252 is attached to the netting 256 at locations 266. The attachments
at locations 264 and 266 may be achieved using jump rings. Again,
the earring 250 is merely an example and shows some of the flexibility
for designing jewelry.
[0085] The use of chains and rings as at least parts of settings
for stones allows much more flexibility in designing jewelry. A
significantly larger number of attaching points to other parts of
the jewelry is possible. New arrangements and orientations may now
be realized. The variety of shapes, sizes, and materials allow a
nearly infinite number of combinations to be made.
[0086] The settings described herein may be more appealing and
appear more "fluid" and less "industrial" compared
to conventional crimped metal settings. The settings described herein
allow more symmetric settings (both from a visual and mass (i.e.,
center of gravity) perspective) to be made because a relatively
dense piece of metal is not required to lie on one side of the stone.
The symmetry can allow the stone-setting combination to hang more
vertically in free space because the center of gravity is not shifted
due to the crimped metal.
[0087] The jewelry and process for making it does not require new
materials or fabrication equipment. Therefore, the risks associated
with new materials and equipment is avoided.
[0088] In the foregoing specification, the invention has been described
with reference to specific embodiments. However, one of ordinary
skill in the art appreciates that various modifications and changes
can be made without departing from the scope of the present invention
as set forth in the claims below. Accordingly, the specification
and figures are to be regarded in an illustrative rather than a
restrictive sense, and all such modifications are intended to be
included within the scope of present invention.
[0089] Benefits, other advantages, and solutions to problems have
been described above with regard to specific embodiments. However,
the benefits, advantages, solutions to problems, and any element(s)
that may cause any benefit, advantage, or solution to occur or become
more pronounced are not to be construed as a critical, required,
or essential feature or element of the invention. |