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Patent Abstract
A jewelry article optionally with one or more gemstones, includes
one or more hollow core segments with at least one bore in a side
wall, and optionally an element interconnected with the one or more
of the segments formed by a flexible linkage. A segment may include
a setting with rods to receive a gemstone. The segment(s), and optionally
the element, are preferably in an annular array to form a ring,
necklace and the like and may be of the same or different configurations.
The segments also may have different arcuate circumferential lengths
and cross sectional shapes preferably frusto-conical and may comprise
only a portion of an article such as a finger ring or necklace and
the like periphery. The linkage is formed by a pin secured to one
segment or element and which pin passes through the bore into the
hollow core of the adjacent abutting segment. A coil compression
spring is captured to the pin in the hollow core of a segment and
urges the adjacent components together. The spring and pin permit
the normally abutting components to resiliently move relative to
each other to permit relative expansion along the pin length. Pins
in an array of segments are offset with the central plane of a ring
type article to permit a gemstone to be seated deep within the core.
Patent Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A flexible linkage for a jewelry article comprising: an aesthetically
pleasing jewelry element and an adjacent aesthetically pleasing
jewelry segment having an annular wall for forming at least a portion
of said article, the segment having a hollow internal region, said
annular wall forming a side wall with a bore therethrough in communication
with the internal region; a first elongated member secured to and
extending outwardly from the element, the elongated member passing
through the bore into the hollow internal region of the segment;
and a spring secured to the elongated member in the hollow region
of the segment for resiliently urging the segment toward the element
while permitting the segment and element to resiliently move away
from each other.
2. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the segment is arranged to receive
a gemstone.
3. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the segment is arranged to receive
decorative indicia thereon.
4. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the segment has an enlarged boss
in the hollow region, the boss having said bore pass therethrough.
5. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the elongated member is closely
received in the bore for substantially precluding transverse wobble
of the segment and element relative to each other.
6. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the elongated member defines
an axis at the bore, the hollow region of at the segment is open
to the ambient atmosphere in a direction transverse to the axis
in at least one of two opposing directions.
7. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the segment is formed as a gem
receiving setting.
8. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the segment and element are arranged
in an annular array of a plurality of segments on a circular axis
lying in a plane, the elongated member being offset from the axis
transversely to the plane.
9. The linkage of claim 8 including a second elongated member offset
from the axis on a side of the plane opposite the first elongated
member.
10. The linkage of claim 9 wherein the first and second elongated
members alternate in a direction extending about the annular array.
11. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the elongated member is a pin
with an enlarged head at each end.
12. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the elongated member is a threaded
stud with a head at one end and a nut at the other end, the head
and nut for capturing the member to the adjacent element and segment.
13. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the element and segment are
identical.
14. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the elongated member has a transverse
bore in each end and including a fastener in the transverse bore
for capturing the elongated member to one of said segment in said
hollow region.
15. The linkage of claim 1 including a plurality of said segment
and a plurality of said first elongated member wherein the plurality
of first members are aligned in a plane.
16. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the element is a segment, the
segments are each generally annular with a hollow core forming said
hollow region.
17. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the element is a segment and
further including a plurality of identical segments.
18. The linkage of claim 1 including at least one further segment
wherein the at least one further segment is elongated wherein the
hollow region is located in a relative small portion of the further
segment at at least the one further segment end.
19. The linkage of claim 1 including an arrangement to minimize
transverse wobble of the element and segment relative to each other.
20. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the spring has an end portion
inserted in a bore in the pin to capture the spring to the elongated
element.
21. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the elongated member is a pin
affixed to the element and is movable relative to the segment.
22. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the element and the segment
each having a bore and hollow region, the bores of the next adjacent
element and segment being aligned with and adjacent to each other,
the first elongated member passing through the aligned adjacent
bores into the hollow regions.
23. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the article is any one of a
finger ring, a bracelet, an anklet, a necklace and a brooch.
24. The linkage of claim 1 wherein the element is a segment, further
including an annular array of said segments.
25. A jewelry article comprising: an array of jewelry segments,
a plurality of said segments having a hollow core, the core being
formed by an annular wall, said wall having a bore on opposing sides;
a pin in the bore of each of two adjacent segments extending into
the hollow core of each segment and terminating at a pin end in
the core; a spring on the pin in at least a core of a first of the
two adjacent segments; and an arrangement at a first pin end for
capturing the spring to the pin and to the first segment core and
at a second pin end for securing the pin to the other of said two
adjacent segments.
26. The article of claim 26 wherein the segments define a plane,
the bores on said opposing sides being offset relative to each other
in a direction transverse to the plane.
27. The article of claim 26 including a spring on the pin in the
core of each of the two adjacent segments.
28. The article of claim 26 wherein the article extends in a direction,
the segments have a length in that direction, the segments being
of the same or different lengths.
29. The article of claim 26 wherein the pin has an arcuate bend.
30. The article of claim 26 wherein the pin has a length and a
uniform cross section along its length.
31. The article of claim 26 wherein the pin and bores are arranged
to minimize transverse wobble of the segments relative to each other.
32. The article of claim 26 wherein the segments are annular.
33. The article of claim 26 wherein the segments are substantially
identical.
34. The article of claim 26 wherein the article is any one of a
necklace, a bracelet, an anklet, a finger ring and a brooch.
35. A method of making a jewelry article comprising forming a plurality
of adjacent segments abutting each other at a web region forming
a one piece rigid integral unit, separating the segments, and then
resiliently attaching the separate segments adjacent to each other
to form them into the article.
36. The method of claim 36 wherein the forming the adjacent segments
comprises casting the plurality of segments.
37. The method of claim 36 wherein the casting step includes casting
the one piece integral unit of a jewelry metal composition.
38. The method of claim 36 including forming a plurality of rods
with the at least one of the segments to form a gemstone setting
with that at least one segment.
39. The method of claim 36 wherein at least one of the segments
has a hollow core.
40. The method of claim 36 wherein a majority of the segments have
a hollow core.
41. The method of claim 36 wherein the segments are identical,
each having a hollow core.
42. A flexible linkage for a jewelry article comprising: an aesthetically
pleasing jewelry element and an adjacent aesthetically pleasing
jewelry segment for forming at least a portion of said article,
the segment having a hollow internal region and a side wall with
a bore therethrough in communication with the internal region; a
first elongated member one of fixedly or resiliently secured to
and extending outwardly from the element, the elongated member passing
through the bore into the hollow internal region of the segment;
and a spring secured to the elongated member in the hollow region
of the segment for resiliently urging the segment toward the element
while permitting the segment and element to resiliently move away
from each other.
43. A method of making an aesthetic pleasing jewelry article comprising
forming a plurality of elements at least one of which elements is
a molded one piece hollow core member with integral monolithic gemstone
setting rods employing a CAD/CAM metal mold forming process and
resiliently securing the plurality of elements together, each element
being adjacent to a further element to form the article.
44. The method of claim 45 wherein the CAD/CAM mold forming process
includes preparing a negative mold from a CAD/CAM machined positive
mold, filling the negative mold with wax, removing the wax, molding
a positive wax replica of the negative mold, forming a finished
mold with the positive wax replica and then forming a precious metal
ring segment assembly from the finished mold, the segment assembly
comprising a segment with one piece molded monolithically attached
gemstone setting rods.
45. An aesthetic pleasing jewelry article made with the method
of claim 45.
Patent Description
[0001] This application claims the benefit of provisional applications
Ser. No. 60/526,828 filed Dec. 4, 2003 entitled "Flexible Linkage
for Jewelry and Method of Making" and Ser. No. 60/626,774 filed
Nov. 10, 2004 entitled "Flexible Linkage for Jewelry and Method
of Making" incorporated by reference herein in their entireties.
[0002] This invention relates to jewelry, and more particularly
to body or clothing adornment jewelry having multiple elements which
together can expand to accommodate various annular body parts or
for decoration, for example, finger rings, necklaces, brooches,
decorative pins, bracelets or anklets and so on.
[0003] The problem generally with finger rings, chokers, bracelets,
anklets and so on is that in practice such articles are formed into
relatively one circumferential fixed dimension and thus fit only
one size annular body part such as a finger, the neck, a wrist or
ankle, for example. However, such body parts tend to change in size
over time due to various factors or differ from person to person
by significant amounts. A person may particularly like a jewelry
item, but may not be able to use it because it is too small for
the person's neck, finger, wrist and so on. It is very costly for
a merchant to carry jewelry articles such as chokers, bracelets,
anklets, finger rings and so on in different sizes and more often,
such jewelry usually is available in only one or limited size ranges.
[0004] In the case of fingers, the joints of the fingers typically
are larger than the intermediate portions. It is often difficult
to remove a ring from a finger once it is attached due to the enlarged
joint. The prior art has provided a number of solutions to this
problem with respect to finger rings, none of which are satisfactory
as explained below. In the case of wrists, if a bracelet is too
small it can not be used by that person. The same is true of chokers
which tend to closely fit about the neck. Thus many people who ordinarily
would purchase such jewelry articles do not because of fit problems.
Also, it is desirable that such articles do not appear to be flexible
and expandable because such appearance may detract from the value
of the article. People may not like to associate fine costly jewelry
with visible linkages.
[0005] U.S. Pat. No. 668 discloses a finger ring wherein a linkage
arrangement is provided which permits the ring finger size to expand.
Gems may be placed on the links or the ring may be plain. The links
are arranged as a series of symmetrical interconnected four bar
linkages. The links are externally visible and thus detract from
the appearance of the ring. Also such links may also pinch in certain
instances.
[0006] U.S. Pat. No. 1,079,489 discloses an expandable finger ring
including a curved rod pivotally attached to a relatively enlarged
squared section link at a rod enlarged head section. The link is
pivoted to an enlarged base section. The base section is pivoted
to a connecting portion which extends for about 120.degree.. The
other end of the rod receives a lug which captures a spring to the
head section. Two sets of such sections are located on opposite
sides of the decorative element of the ring. These sections take
up about 25% of the ring periphery. The rod and square links are
located inside of a hollow portion of the ring sections which hollow
portion extends about the ring center for about 25% of the ring.
Numerous pivots and complex shapes are required. The ring sections
separate as the ring is passed over an enlarged portion of a finger
and return over a smaller portion of the finger. The ring is formed
of numerous differing sections which are not arranged to receive
gemstones and are costly to fabricate and assemble.
[0007] U.S. Pat. No. 1,018,663 discloses an expandable ring comprising
outer links between which is sandwiched an inner link. All of the
links are elongated and arcuate. The inner link has an arcuate slot.
Two pins are attached to the outer links and extend across the spacing
between the two outer links. The pins pass through the slot of an
inner link. A spring is in the inner link slot and between each
pin and the end of the inner link slot. The outer links thus can
resiliently move apart wherein the pins in the inner link slot move
to compress their respective springs as the ring is expanded. The
links are not arranged to receive gemstones. The outer links appear
as such and thus detract from the visual appearance of the ring.
This structure also has numerous components and is costly to implement.
[0008] U.S. Pat. No. 2,902,749 discloses an expandable ring comprising
a plurality of complex sections linked together by an elongated
spring threaded through all of the sections. The sections have pins
which slidably and pivotally engage slots in the next adjacent sections.
The sections are H shaped with a center guide member having a bore
for receiving the spring and inwardly extending pins at the end
of each leg of the H for engaging the slots of the next section,
the sections alternating in an annular array. These next sections
have a plate and spaced resilient jaws forming the slots with the
plate and a central body with an elongated bore for receiving the
spring. This too is a complex and costly arrangement. Thus the above
patents disclose costly and complex structures which also have limited
flexibility in design or are relatively unsightly.
[0009] A need is seen by the present inventors for a solution to
these problems including provide a relatively low cost flexible
jewelry linkage arrangement and also provide jewelry segments that
do not detract from the visual appearance of the jewelry article.
[0010] A flexible linkage for a jewelry article according to the
present invention comprises an aesthetically pleasing jewelry element
and an adjacent aesthetically pleasing jewelry segment having an
annular wall for forming at least a portion of the article, the
segment having a hollow internal region, the annular wall forming
a side wall with a bore therethrough in communication with the internal
region. A first elongated member is secured to and extending outwardly
from the element, the elongated member passing through the bore
into the hollow internal region of the segment; and includes a spring
secured to the elongated member in the hollow region of the segment
for resiliently urging the segment toward the element while permitting
the segment and element to resiliently move away from each other.
[0011] In one aspect, the segment is arranged to receive a gemstone.
[0012] In a further aspect, the segment is arranged to receive
decorative indicia thereon.
[0013] In a further aspect, the segment has an enlarged boss in
the hollow region, the boss having the bore therethrough.
[0014] In a further aspect, the elongated member is closely received
in the bore for substantially precluding transverse wobble of the
segment and element relative to each other.
[0015] In a further aspect, the elongated member defines an axis
at the bore, the hollow region of the segment is open to the ambient
atmosphere in a direction transverse to the axis in two opposing
directions.
[0016] In a further aspect, the segment is formed as a gem receiving
setting.
[0017] In a further aspect, the segment and element are arranged
in an annular array of a plurality of segments on a circular axis
lying in a plane, the elongated member being offset from the axis
transversely to the plane.
[0018] In a further aspect, a second elongated member is included
offset from the axis on a side of the plane opposite the first elongated
member.
[0019] In a further aspect, the first and second elongated members
alternate in a direction extending about the annular array.
[0020] In a further aspect, the elongated member is a pin with
an enlarged head at each end.
[0021] In a further aspect, the elongated member is a threaded
stud with a head at one end and a nut at the other end, the head
and nut for capturing the member to the adjacent element and segment
[0022] In a further aspect, the element and segment are identical.
[0023] In a further aspect, the elongated member has a transverse
bore in each end and including a fastener in the transverse bore
for capturing the elongated member to one of the segments in the
hollow region.
[0024] In a further aspect, a plurality of segments and a plurality
of the first elongated members are included wherein the plurality
of first members are aligned in a plane.
[0025] In a further aspect, the article is any one of a finger
ring, a bracelet, an anklet, a necklace and a brooch.
[0026] In a further aspect, the element is a segment, the segments
are each generally annular with a hollow core forming the hollow
region.
[0027] A method of making a jewelry article according to the present
invention comprises forming a plurality of adjacent segments abutting
each other at a web region forming a one piece rigid integral unit,
separating the segments, and then resiliently attaching the separate
segments adjacent to each other to form them into the article.
[0028] In a further aspect, the forming the adjacent segments comprises
casting the plurality of segments.
[0029] In a further aspect, the casting step includes casting the
one piece integral unit of a jewelry metal composition.
[0030] In a further aspect, the method includes forming a plurality
of rods with the at least one of the segments to form a gemstone
setting with that at least one segment.
[0031] In a further aspect, at least one of the segments has a
hollow core. Preferably, in a further aspect, a majority of the
segments have a hollow core. In a further aspect, the segments are
identical, each having a hollow core.
[0032] In a further aspect, a flexible linkage for a jewelry article
comprises an aesthetically pleasing jewelry element and an adjacent
aesthetically pleasing jewelry segment for forming at least a portion
of the article, the segment having a hollow internal region and
a side wall with a bore therethrough in communication with the internal
region. A first elongated member is one of fixedly or resiliently
secured to and extends outwardly from the element, the elongated
member passing through the bore into the hollow internal region
of the segment. A spring is secured to the elongated member in the
hollow region of the segment for resiliently urging the segment
toward the element while permitting the segment and element to resiliently
move away from each other.
[0033] In a still further aspect, a method of making an aesthetic
pleasing jewelry article comprises forming a plurality of elements
at least one of which elements is a molded one piece hollow core
member with integral monolithic gemstone setting rods employing
a CAD/CAM metal mold forming process and resiliently securing the
plurality of elements together, each element being adjacent to a
further element to form the article.
IN THE DRAWING
[0034] FIG. 1 is a front elevation view of a finger ring according
to an embodiment of the present invention;
[0035] FIG. 2 is a side elevation view of the ring of FIG. 1;
[0036] FIG. 3 is a more detailed front elevation sectional view
of a portion of the ring of FIG. 1;
[0037] FIG. 4 is a plan sectional view of a portion of the ring
of FIG. 1 arranged as a linear array of segments for purposes of
illustration;
[0038] FIG. 5 is a side elevation sectional view of a portion of
a ring according to a second embodiment of the present invention;
[0039] FIG. 5a is an exploded side elevation view of a spring and
pin in accordance with an embodiment thereof;
[0040] FIG. 5b is a sectional side elevation view of ring segments
and pin connection according to a further embodiment;
[0041] FIG. 6 is a sectional plan view of a portion of a ring arranged
as a linear array of segments for purposes of illustration according
to a further embodiment;
[0042] FIG. 7 a side elevation sectional view of the ring portion
of FIG. 6;
[0043] FIG. 8 is a front elevation view of a ring according to
a further embodiment;
[0044] FIG. 9 is a front elevation view of a portion of airing
according to a further embodiment of the present invention
[0045] FIG. 10 is a fragmented front elevation view of the ring
according to a further embodiment of the present invention;
[0046] FIG. 11 is a plan sectional view of a ring portion arranged
in a linear array for purposes of illustration according to a further
embodiment of the present invention;
[0047] FIG. 12 is a plan sectional view of a representative ring
segment according to a further embodiment of the present invention;
[0048] FIG. 13 is a side sectional elevation view of a portion
of a ring segment of the ring of FIG. 9;
[0049] FIG. 14 is a side elevation view of a casting of a ring
in an intermediate stage of fabrication of the embodiment of FIGS.
6 and 7;
[0050] FIG. 15 is a top plan view of the casting of FIG. 14;
[0051] FIG. 16 is an isometric view partially in section of one
of the segments of the embodiment of FIGS. 14 and 15 after separation
from the adjacent segments;
[0052] FIG. 17 is an isometric view of a rod for use with the segments
to form the segment into a gem receiving setting;
[0053] FIG. 17a is a top plan sectional view of a segment according
to a further embodiment of the present invention;
[0054] FIG. 18 is a top plan view of a jewelry bracelet;
[0055] FIG. 19 is a top plan view of a necklace;
[0056] FIGS. 20 and 21 are respective top plan and elevation sectional
views of a brooch;
[0057] FIG. 22 is a top plan view of another embodiment of a jewelry
bracelet;
[0058] FIG. 23 is a fragmented top plan view an alternative embodiment
of elements arranged in flexible interconnected linkages;
[0059] FIG. 24 is a fragmented isometric view of a portion of a
bracelet according to the embodiment of FIG. 18;
[0060] FIGS. 25-27 illustrate various stages of a representative
attachment of the gemstone setting rods to a finger ring segment;
[0061] FIG. 28 is a perspective view of a finger ring segment according
to a further embodiment;
[0062] FIG. 29 is a perspective view of the finger ring segment
of FIG. 28 with a link pin attached for resilient coupling to a
next adjacent segment;
[0063] FIG. 30 is a perspective view of a finger ring utilizing
the segments of FIGS. 28 and 29 without the gemstones attached;
[0064] FIG. 31 is a plan view of the finger ring of FIG. 30; and
[0065] FIG. 32 is a side elevation view of the finger ring of FIG.
30.
DEFINITIONS
[0066] Secure--The term secure as used herein means to fixedly
or rigidly make firm or fast by attaching or to movably attach.
[0067] Pin--An elongated slender member of cylindrical or any other
cross section configuration of any length made of wood, metal, plastic
or other stiff materials and the like used to fasten, support or
hold things together.
[0068] Jewelry--An article of gold, silver, platinum or other fine
metals or a base material with or without a coating and/or having
an attractive exterior finish with or without precious or semiprecious
stones and with or without decorative art work and used for adornment.
[0069] Element--A jewelry member which is formed as a portion of
a jewelry article and may include segment.
[0070] Segment--A discrete unit of a jewelry article having a hollow
core and resiliently attached to a next adjacent member by an elongated
member and a spring.
[0071] In FIGS. 1 and 2, a jewelry finger ring 2, in an exemplary
first embodiment, has a plurality of hollow core annular segments
4, which are preferably generally frusto-conical, and extend about
the ring in abutting relationship in their normal quiescent position.
Each segment is a frusto-conical cylinder with a hollow core in
this example, preferably in this embodiment of the same general
diametrical, height and thickness dimensions and is formed as a
gemstone setting with identical rods 5 soldered or welded to the
segments on their external surfaces. The hollow core segments and
rods 5 receive a diamond gemstone 6 or other gem or decorative stone.
The stones may be the same or different. In the alternative, decorative
indicia such as enamel surfaces, or other art works, not shown,
may be attached to or formed integral with each segment 4. In a
further alternative, the segments may be plain through out or combined
with gems or other art works on their outer regions. The rods are
also optional for this reason. The segments and stones 6 are set
in a uniform annular array in this embodiment, i.e., that is the
segments are identical and are at equal abutting relation to form
an aesthetically pleasing ring with each other and of generally
the same size. The stones 6 are positioned in this embodiment slightly
above each segment at the same general position.
[0072] In FIG. 3, in a further embodiment, by way of example and
illustration, the jewelry finger ring 3 has settings 8 and 10 and
respective segments 4.sub.1 and 4.sub.2 corresponding to the settings
8 and 10. The settings and segments are preferably formed of jewelry
metal such as platinum or an alloy thereof, but may be other metals
or a base material plated or coated with rhodium, a white metal,
gold, silver and so on or non-metal base materials as desired, with
or without a coating. The settings 8 include rods 24 and the settings
10 include rods 26. The rods are preferably wires formed of a platinum
alloy. The rods 24 and 26 in this example extend at different heights
above the ring outer periphery surface 12 formed by the respective
segments 4.sub.1 and 4.sub.2. Each segment and its rods together
form a setting 8 or 10 for a precious or semi-precious gem or other
stone or decorative element. The segments 4.sub.1 and 4.sub.2 without
the rods are preferably identical in outer dimensions and thickness.
The segments may have any outer peripheral shape, such as circular
in the form of frusto-conical, square, rectangular or a polygon
of any regular or irregular shape. The segments 4.sub.1 and 4.sub.2
are preferably as shown in this embodiment annular frusto-conical
cylinders or rings, FIG. 4. A representative segment 4.sub.1, FIG.
4, in one embodiment comprises four sections 14, 16, 18 and 20 of
equal angular extent in directions 22. Each section 14-20 is of
the same height h, FIG. 3. The sections and rods are preferably
metal and are of any desired material such as 95% platinum alloy
or other white metal, or alloys of known compositions as used in
the jewelry art or any other suitable materials such as other metals,
plastics, and synthetic materials. For example, a preferred composition
is disclosed in commonly owned U.S. Pat. No. 6,071,471 incorporated
herein by reference. The sections are preferably cast and/or machined
or fabricated according to any known technique according to a given
implementation.
[0073] The settings 8 are each respectively formed with identical
rods 24 as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4. The settings 10 are each preferably
formed with identical rods 26 shorter than rods 24, in this embodiment,
as shown in FIG. 3. The rods 24 of settings 8 are taller than the
rods of settings 10 so that the gemstones 6 are at different heights
about the ring outer surface 12. This is optional as all rods of
all of the settings may also be of the same height, for example,
the height of settings 8 or 10 or any other configuration, as shown
in FIGS. 1 and 5, for example. Many different types of precious
or semi-precious stone setting configurations may be employed for
a given implementation as known in the jewelry art.
[0074] The rods 26 of representative segment 4.sub.2, FIG. 4, are
welded, soldered, brazed or otherwise bonded to or affixed to and
between the sections 14, 16, 18 and 20, and optionally and may be
cast one piece therewith.
[0075] The rods are preferably platinum alloy wires that are brazed
to the platinum segments as explained below in connection with FIGS.
25-27, which segments are formed as one piece castings as explained
below in connection with FIGS. 14-16. The settings 8 and 10 are
preferably made of identical metals. The segments, in the alternative,
may be cast together as a one piece integral unit to form each segment
and then later separated as discussed below in connection with FIGS.
14-16. In a further alternative, the rods and each frusto-conical
segment may be cast as a one piece setting. The segments and rods
preferably have rounded corners, which is optional. The setting
configuration is also optional as other configurations may also
be used. Also, a plain jewelry finger ring thus would not have any
rods or settings. In such a plain ring, the segments may of uniform
or equal size or of different circumferential lengths and enclosed
at the outer exposed surfaces.
[0076] While the segments 4.sub.1, 4.sub.2 are shown as frusto-conical
rings in FIG. 4 they may have other geometrical shapes as desired
such as square, rectangular, oval, elliptical and may include complex
surfaces with surface features such as grooves or engravings, and
include art work images in enamel and so on as commonly employed
in the jewelry art. Additional artistic elements may be added to
the segments such as cameos, frescos, decorative elements and so
on. The segments may also have rounded cylindrical outside surfaces
so that the ring appears in toto as an annular tube or rod as in
conventional solid rings of this type.
[0077] In FIGS. 14 and 15, the segments 162, in an alternative
embodiment, may be cast as a single integral intermediate stage
ring 160. The ring 160 is formed with a plurality of frusto-conical
segments 162 wherein adjacent segments are joined together as one
piece by webs 164. The segments are each identical or substantially
identical in this embodiment. The segments 162 are then separated
by cutting the webs with a saw or like tool and then finely finished
at the cuts, regions R, FIG. 16, to provide an aesthetic pleasing
annular appearance as segment 162'. Any cutting instrumentation
or technique may be used to separate the segments. This process
insures that all of the segments so cut from an annular ring together
can be rejoined in the flexible segmented ring as a whole.
[0078] A bore 165, FIG. 16, may be then formed on opposite sides
in offset relation relative to the center axis of the segment hollow
core as shown for example by the bores 30 and 40, FIG. 4. A set
of four, or more or less as desired, of rods 166, FIG. 17 are then
brazed to the exterior surface of the segment(s) to form the setting
with the segments for receiving a gemstone.
[0079] In FIGS. 25-27, by way of example segment 250, formed of
platinum, is cast originally as part of a ring casting as shown
and explained in connection with FIGS. 14-17 above. The segments
are then separated as discussed. In this embodiment, the segment
250, which is representative of all of the segments of this ring,
is shown as circular cylindrical for purposes of illustration but
is preferably frusto-conical. In this embodiment the segment 250
is formed with an annular array of four identical semi-circular
cylindrical grooves 252, which are optional. These grooves extend
along the external surface of the segment and are cast into the
segment.
[0080] A set of four platinum alloy wires 254, one being shown
in FIG. 25, are complementary diametrically dimensioned to the grooves
diametrical dimensions so each wire will nest in its corresponding
groove. The wires 254, FIG. 26, are then laser tack welded to the
segment 250 by a laser 256. The laser beam 258 tack welds the wire
at desired location on the wire to temporarily secure the wires
254 to the segment. In FIG. 27, a shim 260 of platinum material
has a melt temperature of about 1110.degree. C. The shim 260 may
be of any shape, but is shown as an elongated rectangular strip
of sheet metal. The shim 260 is used to braze the wires 254 to the
segment 250. A shim 260 is placed adjacent to the junction of each
wire 254 and segment 250. The shims 260 may be preferably tack welded
in place by the laser 256.
[0081] The segments 250 with the attached wires 254 and shims 260
are then placed in an oven (not shown) in an orientation, such as
that shown in FIG. 27, that permits the shim material when molten,
to flow into the junction between the wires 254 and the segment
250. The interior of the oven has a temperature of about 1100.degree.
C. The segment with the attached wires and shims is left in the
oven for a time period sufficient to melt the shims. The molten
shims flow into their junctions with the segment 250. The assembly
is removed from the oven and cooled.
[0082] By initially casting the segments as an integral one piece
ring, it is assured that all segments from this ring after separation
will match to form the finished ring product. This method of forming
the segments is preferred as compared to the embodiment of FIG.
3 wherein each segment is formed of sections, which is more costly
and difficult to fabricate and thus is less desirable.
[0083] In FIGS. 3 and 4, the segments are described as comprising
sections for purposes of illustration only, it being understood
from the above that the segments are preferably cast one piece as
described. Section 16 of representative segment 4.sub.1 has a bore
30 therethrough. The next adjacent segment 4.sub.2' on one side
of segment 4.sub.1 has a section 32 with a bore 34 therethrough.
Section 32 preferably abuts section 16. The bores 30 and 34 are
preferably identical and axially aligned on axis 44, FIG. 4, to
form a continuous bore with each other.
[0084] The next adjacent segment 4.sub.2", FIG. 4, on the
other side of segment 4.sub.1 has a section 36 with a bore 38 therethrough.
Section 20 of segment 4.sub.1 has a through bore 40 that is axially
aligned with the bore 38 on axis 42 that is parallel to the axis
44 of bores 30 and 34. The axes 42 and 44 are preferably equally
spaced from and offset with respect to the central plane 46 of the
ring. Section 36 preferably abuts section 20. The bores 38 and 40
are preferably identical and axially aligned to form a continuous
bore with each other. The bores 38 and 40 are identical to the bores
30 and 34. All of the remaining segments of ring 2 are constructed
with bores identical to the bores of segments 4.sub.1, 4.sub.2'
and 4.sub.2".
[0085] A pin assembly 47 is associated with each pair of adjacent
sections of the adjacent segments. Representative assembly 47',
FIGS. 3 and 4, includes a circular cylindrical elongated metal pin
48, which may be rhodium plated carbon steel, located in the bores
30 and 34 and extends into the hollow region or core 50 of segment
4.sub.1 and hollow region or core 52 of segment 4.sub.2'. In FIG.
4, pin 48 has a through bore 54 at each end. The pin 48 is closely
received in the segment bores 30 and 34 so as to minimize transverse
wobble or displacement of the segments 4 and 4' relative to each
in a direction generally transverse to the plane 46. Some wobble
or displacement may be present. To this extent, the walls of the
sections 16, 20, 32 and 36 and so on for all segments are sufficiently
thick to prevent such wobble or displacement of the pin 48. However,
the pin 48 is free to slide in the bores 30 and 34 with minimum
undesirable sticking.
[0086] In the alternative, in a preferred embodiment, the pin 48
is welded or soldered to the section of one of the segments, e.g.,
section 32 in the interior of the segment 4.sub.2' (or in the alternative
at the exterior surface of the segment). The pin 48 is free to displace
with respect to the next adjacent segment such as segment 4.sub.1.
Where the pin is soldered or otherwise affixed to one of the segments,
then no spring is required on the pin in that segment core since
the segment and pin are in fixed rigid relationship to each other.
Also, the bore in that segment for the permanently fixed pin while
preferable, is optional, as the pin may be affixed to it by soldering
or otherwise to the segment on the segment external surface.
[0087] A rivet 56 with a head at opposite ends, FIG. 6, in one
embodiment, or a threaded stud with a head at one end and a nut
on its other end, FIG. 11, in another embodiment, is located in
each bore 54. The head and/or nut are enlarged elements relative
to the bores in which the pin 48 is located. The rivet 56 forms
an enlarged element, which captures the pin to the segment sections
16 and 32 A compression coil spring 58 is on the pin 48 between
the rivet 56 and the section 32 in core 52 of segment 4.sub.2'.
The spring 58 may be rhodium plated carbon steel. A like spring
58 is optionally on the pin 48 between the rivet 56 and the section
16 in the core 50 of the abutting adjacent segment 4.sub.1. In this
case the pin and each segment are in movable relation to each other.
[0088] Preferably, each segment can move relative to the next adjacent
segment about 0.05-0.25 mm (0.002 to 0.01 inches). With 20-30 segments
in a ring, then a total annular resilient play in the ring with
respect to possible circumferential expansion is about 1-7.5 mm
(0.040 to about 0.30 inches). The springs also have a spring rate
such that the segments are held relatively tightly together such
that a deliberate pulling force is required to separate the segments
as compared to a casual slight force that might occur during normal
use of the ring.
[0089] In similar fashion, a pin 48 is in bores 38 and 40 of respective
sections 36 and 20 in the respective cores of segments 4.sub.1'
and 4. Springs 58 and rivets 56 are on the pin 48 associated with
the bores 38 and 40.
[0090] In the alternative, in FIG. 5a, a spring may be affixed
to a pin in a different construction. In FIG. 5a, spring 170 has
a transverse bent end portion 172 that is normal to the spring longitudinal
axis 174. The pin 176, corresponding to pin 48, FIG. 4, has a bore
178 therethrough at one end. The bore 178 receives the bent end
portion 172 of the spring to capture the spring 170 to the interior
wall surface of the segment through which the pin 176 passes in
similar fashion as the pin 48, FIG. 4. The pin 176 is preferably
also soldered to the segment wall of the next adjacent segment.
In the case where the pin is soldered or otherwise rigidly attached
to a segment wall, there is no spring on the pin in that segment
since the pin is rigidly held in place to that segment, and a spring
would serve no purpose in this case.
[0091] In FIG. 5b, in a further example, frusto-conical segments
180 and 182 are abutting. A pin 184 is connected to each segment.
Pin 184 has a head 186 that is soldered by solder 188 to the segment
180 in its core 190. Next adjacent segment 182 is resilient with
respect to segment 180 along the pin 184 longitudinal axis. The
soldering of the pin 184 head 186 to segment 180 stiffens the connection
and thus the segments relative to each other to minimize side to
side wobble, although some resilient side play may be present.
[0092] A pair of pins, springs and rivets, FIG. 4, are associated
with each segment of the ring 2 as described above for segments
4, 4' and 4.sub.1'. The axes of the pins and associated section
bores alternate about the ring on opposite sides of the plane 46
as shown in FIG. 4. Thus the pins are aligned in two parallel spaced
apart annular arrays as shown on opposite sides of plane 46 (the
arrays of segments in FIG. 4 are shown as oriented linear in a plane
for simplicity of illustration, it being understood the segments
are arranged in an annular array). The pins 48 have portions that
extend into and located within the cores of the corresponding segments
adjacent to the bottom edges 62 of each segment to allow room for
the gemstone 6, FIG. 3, to be set into the core of the segment,
as applicable. The cores of the segments are open at the top edge
surfaces 12, FIG. 3, and bottom edges 62. However, the cores may
also be enclosed at the top and optionally also at the bottom. As
a result, the springs are internal the segment cores and are not
externally visible. Due to the close spacing of the segments, the
pins are also generally of minimal visibility in the spaces between
the segments in the normal use of the ring.
[0093] In the alternative, instead of settings being associated
with each segment, the top surfaces 12 may be fully enclosed and
formed with no settings. These surfaces may be plain or decorated
with any kind of decorative media.
[0094] In operation, as the ring 2 is passed over a finger (not
shown), FIG. 1, the segments are free to separate and expand the
ring central opening to pass over the finger joints to its final
position on the finger. In addition, as the finger may increase
in size over time within the limits of expansion of the ring, the
ring will always fit on the finger by expanding or contracting as
the case may be. The segments are free to displace relative to the
next adjacent segment. This provides a total ring displacement as
discussed above.
[0095] In the alternative to the settings of ring 3 being at alternating
different heights above the segment surfaces 12, the settings may
be at the same height as shown in FIG. 1 at the height shown also
in FIG. 5.
[0096] In addition, as shown in FIGS. 5 and 8, ring 64 may have
a plurality of segments 66 extending partially about the ring and
a large portion 70 of the ring may be optionally one piece. Segment
72 may carry a gemstone 68 and the segments 66 may be fully enclosed
by a wall 74 at the outer peripheral surface corresponding to surface
12, FIG. 3, to form a plain ring with a single solitaire gemstone
68 as in conventional rings. The walls of the segments 66 may be
decorated as discussed above in the alternative or may be plain
white metal such as platinum alloys or other metals. The pin assemblies
76 of FIG. 5 may be otherwise identical with the pin assemblies
of FIGS. 3 and 4 or FIG. 5b. As shown, however, the springs are
attached as explained in connection with FIG. 5a wherein a spring
has an end portion bent at right angles to the pin longitudinal
axis and passed through a bore in the pin end. This end portion
may be crimped to secure it to the pin after insertion in the bore.
[0097] The embodiment of FIG. 5 shows the gemstone 68 having a
major portion inserted into the hollow core 73 of the segment 72.
The pins 75 are offset from the center of the adjacent segment hollow
cores 73, 73' as shown in the embodiment of FIG. 4, pins 48. This
offset permits the gemstone to sit in the core region between the
pins without interference with the pins and springs. Of course,
the gemstone may be foreshortened also as illustrated by the dashed
line 55. The rods 57 forming the setting are also foreshortened
as shown to project slightly above the surface 59 of the segment
72 an amount to secure the stone 68 thereto. The FIG. 1 embodiment
of the ring 2 illustrates a ring with gemstones set similarly as
stone 68, but with a stone in each setting formed by each segment
about the ring. This forms an aesthetically pleasing wedding band
type ring.
[0098] In FIGS. 6 and 7, in the alternative, ring 78 includes a
plurality of pairs of alternating segments 80, 82. The segments
may form the entire ring or part of the ring as discussed in connection
with FIG. 8 and so on. The segments may be identical to those of
the embodiment of FIGS. 3 and 4. The difference is that pin assemblies
84 include a single spring 86 associated with each pin 88. In addition,
each pin has heads 90 and 91 at opposite ends, an enlarged member
that may be in the form of a rivet head attached to the pin end
or formed by swaging the pin at its end. In the alternative, the
spring may be attached to the pin as shown in FIG. 5a. The pin heads
91 are preferably soldered or otherwise bonded to the corresponding
segment by solder joint 93. The segments in the various embodiments
are arranged in an annular array on a circular axis lying in a plane,
such as plane 46, FIG. 4, the pins being offset from the axis transversely
to the plane as shown in FIG. 4.
[0099] In FIG. 9, ring 92 is formed of segments 94, 96, 98 and
100 among others optionally. The segments may be of the same or
different arcuate extents. Segments 98 and 100 are the same and
segments 94 and 96 are the same and longer than segments 94 and
96. A further segment (not shown) for carrying a gemstone may be
between segments 98 and 100.
[0100] In FIG. 13, representative segment 98 has a cavity 102.
Cavity 102 has a shape that permits the insertion of pin 104 into
bore 106 of wall 108. The pin 104 is part of assembly 110 that includes
a spring 112. The pin assembly 110 is attached to a similar wall
of the next adjacent segment 100 or 96, FIG. 9, which segments are
configured with a similar cavity and wall. The remainder of the
segment is solid or may be hollow, e.g., a hollow tube, or the like.
[0101] In FIG. 10, ring 114 comprises a plurality of segments 116,
118, 120 and 122 which are of different annular lengths. The segments
are all interconnected with pins and springs as discussed in the
above embodiments.
[0102] In FIG. 11, ring 124 has a plurality of identical one piece
frusto-conical segments 126 with no gemstone rods. The ring 124
as in FIG. 4 is shown as a linear array of segments which normally
are arranged in an annular array. The linear array is shown for
simplicity of illustration. These segments are enclosed at their
outer surfaces and may also be enclosed in their radially inward
surfaces. These segments have identical bores which receive the
pins 130 of pin assemblies 128 which are identical. The assemblies
128 include a pin 130 having an integral one piece head 132 and
a threaded end 134 to which a nut 136 is threaded to the end 134.
A spring 138 is captured between each head and each nut and the
corresponding segment wall. The pins 130 are located in the central
plane 140 of the ring 124.
[0103] In FIG. 12, in the alternative, a representative segment
142 has an annular wall 144 the majority of which is of uniform
thickness. The wall 144 has two opposing bosses 146 and 148 of like
dimensions which thicken the wall at these locations. A bore 150
is in each boss and passes through the wall 144. The two bores 150
are aligned on axis 152. The shaft 153 of a separate pin 154 is
closely received in and passes through each bore. The pin 154 is
captured to the wall 144 by a head at each end and includes a spring
at least in the region between one of the heads and the adjacent
segment wall of the corresponding segment in a manner discussed
in the above embodiments. The thicker portion of the wall 144 at
the bosses 148 serves to minimize wobbling of the pin 154 in the
bore and yet permit the pin to slide along the bore surface as the
ring segments are displaced away from each other as the ring expands.
One of the heads not associated with a spring may be soldered to
the corresponding segment wall.
[0104] In FIG. 17a, in the alternative, a segment 191 has a pair
of bores 192 and 194 formed for receiving pins. A pin 196 has a
straight portion 197 that passes through the bores of the adjacent
segments and an arcuate bent portion 198 that is in the interior
199 of segment 191 core. A spring 200 is secured to the arcuate
bent portion of the pin. This leaves the center hollow region of
the segment free to receive a gemstone (not shown).
[0105] The resulting jewelry finger ring such as ring 2, FIG. 1,
is pleasing to the eye in that all segments are abutting or are
in such closed proximity within a fraction of a mm or fraction of
an inch, e.g., 0.125 mm (0.005 inches) or less, that they appear
to the eye to abut with no space therebetween. Yet the segments
in their entirety about the ring have sufficient expansion play
therebetween to move resiliently relative to each other and behave
as a stiff elastic band permitting the ring to flex annularly as
it is inserted on a finger. The amount of displacement of the segments
is relatively small so that the ring when on a finger appears to
be a solid one piece unit with the segments appearing to be integral
and joined as one piece. This arrangement provides an improved flexible
ring for use with different size fingers. The ring may be fabricated
in different size inner diameters to accommodate fingers of significantly
different sizes. Thus there has been shown by way of example, in
several embodiments, a flexible jewelry finger ring that accommodates
different finger sizes while having an aesthetically pleasing appearance
to an observer.
[0106] While the above embodiments relate to finger rings, the
present invention also may be employed with other jewelry articles
such as jewelry pins, brooches, bracelets, anklets, necklaces and
any other type of jewelry article used for adornment.
[0107] With respect to bracelets, for example, often such articles,
especially adorned with precious or semi-precious stones tend to
be fabricated of a fixed circumferential dimension and will fit
wrists only within a narrow range of such dimensions. Anklets also
are widely popular wherein the jewelry article is fastened about
the ankle. Necklaces too, of the type referred to as chokers, which
closely encircle the neck, may only fit persons with necks of a
maximum dimension. Such articles advantageously may also have linkages
as described above herein which are flexible and which can expand
to fit various circumferential body dimensions for adornment. Also,
decorative jewelry pins may also have parts that are flexibly interconnected
with flexible links as described herein to provide additional variation
in such articles.
[0108] In FIG. 18, a bracelet 202 comprises identical hollow core
(shown in phantom) square in outer peripheral shape segments 204.
The segments are interconnected by flexible links similar to that
shown in FIG. 7 comprising pins 88 and springs 86, it being understood
that the segments of FIG. 7 are normally biased in contiguous abutting
relationship by the springs as shown in FIG. 18 and that the spacing
between the segments of FIG. 7 is created by forcefully separating
the segments. In FIG. 18 the segments are shown in the flattened
state but in use will normally be placed about a wrist. The segments
204 are connected to a single continuous connecting link element
206 which may be rigid or flexible. The bracelet thus can be expanded
to fit about wrists of different sizes. The segments may also include
settings for receiving gemstones. The element 206 may be replaced
by an annular array of segments interconnected by pins and springs
as described above using a single spring or two springs per pin
in accordance with the amount of flexibility desired. Of course,
the bracelet may also be arranged for use with the ankle forming
an anklet as desired. To this end the segments are provided in sizes
and shapes accordingly.
[0109] In FIG. 19, a necklace 208 is shown having segments 210,
212 and 214 among others of differing sizes and shapes. A central
pendent 216 may be attached to the segments. A clasp 218 is provided
for attaching the ends of the necklace in a typical arrangement.
[0110] In FIG. 20, a decorative pin or brooch 220 is in the form
of an insect. The insect has a body 222 which has a hollow core
(not shown). Wings 224 are attached to the body by bent pins 232
soldered to the wings 224 and extending outwardly therefrom. The
head 228 is also attached to the body by a pin 230 soldered to the
head and extending therefrom. The pins 230 and 232 may have the
shape of pin 196, FIG. 18, and pass through bores in the hollow
body 222 wall 234. A spring 236 is attached and captured to each
pin as described in the above embodiments. In this way the head
228 and wings 224 are resilient relative to the body. The body thus
forms a segment of an abstract shape which may be of any desired
configuration.
[0111] In FIG. 22, a bracelet or anklet 238 comprises a plurality
of oval segments 240. A single link element 242 is connected to
the ends of the string of segments 240. The element and segments
are all of jewelry grade materials metal or non-metals. Springs
and pins (not shown) interconnect the element 242 to the adjacent
segments and the segments to each other in a manner as described
in the other embodiments.
[0112] In a further most preferred embodiment, a CAD/CAM system
(Computer Aided Design/Computer Aided Machine, not shown) is used
to create a machined metal positive master mold (not shown, but
which is substantially identical to the segment 266, FIG. 28) for
a single segment assembly comprising an annular segment corresponding
to segment 267, FIG. 28, and attached gemstone setting rods corresponding
to rods 268. By forming a mold with a CAD/CAM system, the mold may
be made more precisely and thus identical with other similarly formed
molds than with prior art manually formed molds, which typically
might differ significantly from one another and thus not form an
aesthetically pleasing annular ring. The resulting mold may be used
to form substantially identical ring segments avoiding the need
to form the segments initially as a cast annular ring of a plurality
of segments as shown in FIGS. 14 and 15, for example. By machining
the master mold of metal with a numerical control machine, a precision
formed mold is fabricated to the desired tight tolerances so as
to form a plurality of ring segment assemblies 267, FIG. 28, which
fit exactly as desired in a given ring configuration. This is an
improved, less costly manner of fabricating the segment and rod
assemblies than that of FIGS. 14 and 15. This is because it is much
less labor intensive. The CAD/CAM approach permits molding the setting
rods to the segments and avoids the need to separately form and
attach the setting rods as shown in FIGS. 25-27, an additional costly
labor intensive process.
[0113] In FIG. 28, a plurality of rods 268, e.g., preferably four,
one piece integral with each annular segment 267, formed as a representative
monolith segment assembly 266, are formed from a mold created by
a machined metal master mold created by the CAD/CAM system. A number
of such master molds can be thus formed substantially identical
to form a substantially identical plurality of segment assemblies
of a given ring that fit together precisely. The so formed segment
267 has a hollow through core 270, which, with the rods 268 form
a setting that receives a gemstone, for example, as shown in FIG.
5. Assembly 266 made by the CAD/CAM system created mold is most
preferred to the above described embodiments. In the latter prior
described embodiments, the rods and segments are formed separately
and attached later by brazing or soldering for example, which is
a relatively slower, costly and tedious labor intensive process.
[0114] The CAD/CAM system is a precise, accurate master metal mold
design system in which the segments and rod molds are designed and
machined, e.g., via a numerically controlled machined that is controlled
by a computer system utilizing the design parameters created on
the CAD system. This segment assembly master metal mold is used
to form a single segment assembly 266 instead of an annular ring
of annular segments as shown for example in FIGS. 14-15. However,
such a one piece annular ring of a plurality of segments forming
an annular array of segments and integral one piece rod mold may
also be formed if desired by the CAD/CAM system as discussed below.
In use of the latter mold, the segments of the final molded ring
of precious metal are first separated and then later joined by resilient
links such as link 274, FIG. 29, as explained above.
[0115] The annular ring of segments of FIGS. 14-15 is contemplated
to insure that all segments of the ring will fit perfectly into
an annular ring. If made separately with prior art casting techniques,
it is believed that the segments if formed separately as molded
individual segments, due to differences in the manually made different
castings, would not accurately form a precise uniform set of segments
that would be sufficiently identical to form the desired ring. It
is believed that the manually molded individual segments might not
fit together exactly, making it more difficult to form an aesthetic
looking ring with identically fitting segments, requiring added
labor intensive machining processes for making the segments fit
as desired.
[0116] In the present most preferred embodiment, utilizing a CAD/CAM
system, a mold of plaster of Paris, for example, is made from each
of a plurality of accurately CAD/CAM machined metal segment assembly
master molds. This plaster mold may, in the alternative, be formed
of rubber or silicone as known in the mold fabrication art. Then
a wax casting manifesting the assembly 266 is formed in the plaster
mold. This wax casting is finished to produce a wax segment assembly
having the final finished surfaces. A further plaster of Paris (or
other material) negative mold is made with the finished wax positive
molded ring. Then the wax is removed by burning or heating in what
is referred to as a lost wax mold process leaving the negative mold
with an empty hollow mold core. When the wax is removed, the latter
plaster of Paris mold has a finely finished negative cavity in which
the precious metal alloy segment assembly is cast to form the molded
monolithic one piece segment and rod assembly 266.
[0117] In the alternative, a master tree mold may be fabricated
comprising five to ten segment assembly molds, for example, or other
quantities of segment assembly molds. The master tree mold is processed
as described above for the single segment assembly master mold to
form a finely finished negative mold for the molding of a number
of segment assemblies 266.
[0118] A single metal positive mold is used to create multiple
plaster molds or, in the alternative, a number of such metal positive
molds are used to create multiple plaster molds. The master metal
positive mold is formed using the CAD/CAM system and thus accurately
forms a plurality of segment-rod assemblies which can be dimensioned
to form a unitary finished precious metal ring setting.
[0119] It should be understood that not all annular segments so
formed by the CAD/CAM system need to have rods attached. The rods
as explained above are used as a setting for precious stones. In
those segments in which such stones are not to be attached, then
there is no need for the rods. Those segments are also fabricated
from molds formed by the CAD/CAM system. By selectively using stone
settings with non stone setting segments, a variety of different
ring configurations can be provided using flexible links as described
above. A single machined master mold of a segment, or of a segment-rod
assembly, can be used for all segments forming a ring due to the
precision of the CAD/CAM mold forming system. This system reduces
three days of manual labor to form a ring as described in connection
with FIGS. 14-15, and others of the figures, to a process that can
be completed in a matter of hours. This latter process is significantly
less manual labor intensive and thus less costly to implement.
[0120] In a still further embodiment, a master machined mold of
a single ring of CAD/CAM machined of joined one piece annular segment
assemblies may be formed. The process above using lost wax is repeated
for each of the multiple segments of the ring mold. Precious metal
segments and integral one piece monolithic rods are created from
each individual segment mold of the machined mold ring as a separate
unit and not as a joined molded ring. However, since the rods are
preformed with the ring, the number of gemstones to be attached
is to be predetermined. The segment assemblies of segments and rods
are formed as individual assemblies as discussed above and each
attached together with the resilient links 274, FIG. 29, to form
a finished ring. A finished ring 272 (without the gemstones attached)
is shown in FIGS. 30-32, wherein the individual segment assemblies
are formed and joined with resilient links. The resilient links
274 may incorporate any of the link embodiments described above.
[0121] In FIG. 23, a bracelet or anklet 244 is formed of hollow
segments 246 joined by springs. The segments are of a hexagon polygon
cross section as by way of further example.
[0122] Thus there has been shown various embodiments of jewelry
articles including segments alone or segments and elements interconnected
by linkages comprising a pin which passes through a bore of at least
one segment and including a spring captured to the pin in the core
of the at least one segment to resiliently urge the segments or
segment, element toward each other. The resultant jewelry article
forms a decorative adornment for attachment about any circumferential
body part or as a brooch. Decorative art work and or precious or
semi-precious stones may be used as desired.
[0123] It will occur to one of ordinary skill that the disclosed
embodiments are given by way of illustration and not limitation,,
and that various other modifications may be made to these embodiments.
For example, the segments and adjacent elements may be of the same
or different lengths. It is intended that the invention be defined
by the appended claims. |