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Patent Abstract
An exemplary system and method for providing a jewelry setting is
disclosed as comprising a first gemstone in an array of gemstones
generally retained at a girdle by fasteners that hold the girdles
of at least a second and a third gemstone of a plurality of gemstones
that surround the first gemstone. Disclosed features and specifications
may be optionally controlled, adapted or otherwise modified to improve
the retention of gemstones in a variety of gemstone settings. Exemplary
embodiments of the present invention generally provide improved
aesthetic presentation and mechanical retention of gemstones in
a gemstone setting.
Patent Claims
We claim:
1. A gemstone setting, comprising: a first gemstone; and a first
girdle; said first gemstone substantially retained proximate to
said first girdle by fasteners that each hold at least second and
third girdles of at least a second and a third gemstone substantially
disposed proximate to said first gemstone.
2. The gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
fixedly mounts on a platform by the first girdle extending into
each of a plurality of first bars substantially extending from the
platform; and the girdle of said second gemstone extends into at
least two bars of the plurality of first bars and into at least
two bars of a plurality of second bars extends from the platform,
spaced from one another, from the first gemstone, and from the first
bars.
3. The gemstone setting of claim 2, wherein the girdle of said
third gemstone extends into at least two bars of the plurality of
first bars, one of which is substantially in common with the second
gemstone, and extending into at least two bars of the plurality
second bars, one of which is substantially in common with the second
gemstone.
4. The gemstone setting of claim 3, wherein the first bars and
the second bars are at least one of substantially unitary with respect
to the platform and substantially molded in one piece with the platform.
5. The gemstone setting of claim 3, wherein said first gemstone
is substantially disposed near the center of at least one of a plurality
of gemstones and an array of gemstones substantially comprising
the second and third gemstones.
6. The gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
fixedly mounts on a platform by the first girdle extending into
each bar of a first plurality of bars extending from the platform;
and the girdle of said second gemstone extends into at least two
bars of the first plurality of bars that are substantially in common
with the first gemstone, and into each bar of a second plurality
of bars substantially extending from the platform, spaced apart
from one another, from the first gemstone, and from the first plurality
of bars.
7. The gemstone setting of claim 6, wherein the girdle of said
third gemstone extends into at least two bars of the first plurality
of bars that are substantially in common with the first gemstone,
and into one bar of the second plurality of bars that is substantially
in common with the second gemstone.
8. The gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
fixedly mounts on a platform by the girdle of the gemstone substantially
retained by each bar of a first plurality of bars extending from
the platform; and the girdle of said second gemstone is held by
at least two bars of the first plurality of bars that are in common
with the first gemstone, and the girdle held by each bar of a second
plurality of bars extends from the platform, spaced from one another,
from the first gemstone, and from the first plurality of bars.
9. The gemstone setting of claim 8, wherein the girdle of said
third gemstone is held by at least two bars of the first plurality
of bars that are in common with the first gemstone, and held by
one bar of the second plurality of bars that is in common with the
second gemstone.
10. A gemstone setting of claim 1, wherein: said first gemstone
substantially fixedly mounts on a platform by the girdle of the
gemstone substantially retained by each fastener of a first plurality
of fasteners mounted on the platform; and the girdle of said second
gemstone is substantially retained by at least two fasteners of
the first plurality of fasteners that are substantially in common
with the first gemstone, and the girdle substantially retained by
each fastener of a second plurality of fasteners mounted on the
platform, spaced from one another, from the first gemstone, and
from the first plurality of fasteners.
11. The gemstone setting of claim 10, further comprising the girdle
of said third gemstone substantially retained by at least two bars
of the first plurality of bars that are substantially in common
with the first gemstone, and substantially retained by one bar of
the second plurality of bars that is substantially in common with
the second gemstone.
12. A method of setting a gemstone, said method comprising the
steps of: providing a first gemstone; and providing a first girdle;
retaining said first gemstone substantially proximate to said first
girdle by fasteners that each substantially retain at least second
and third girdles of at least a second and a third gemstone substantially
disposed proximate to said first gemstone.
13. The method of claim 12, further comprising the steps of: fixedly
mounting said first gemstone on a platform by the girdle of the
gemstone extending into each of a plurality of first bars substantially
extending from the platform; and wherein the girdle of said second
gemstone extends into at least two bars of the plurality of first
bars and into at least two bars of a plurality of second bars extends
from the platform, spaced from one another, from the first gemstone,
and from the first bars.
14. The method of claim 13, wherein the girdle of said third gemstone
extends into at least two bars of the plurality of first bars, at
least one of which is substantially in common with the second gemstone,
and extending into at least two bars of the plurality second bars,
one of which is substantially in common with the second gemstone.
15. The method of claim 14, wherein the first bars and the second
bars are at least one of substantially unitary with respect to the
platform and substantially molded in one piece with the platform.
16. The method of claim 14, wherein said first gemstone is substantially
disposed near the center of at least one of a plurality of gemstones
and an array of gemstones substantially comprising said second and
third gemstones.
17. The method of claim 12, further comprising the steps of: fixedly
mounting said first gemstone on a platform by the first girdle extending
into each bar of a first plurality of bars extending from the platform;
and wherein the girdle of said second gemstone extends into at least
two bars of the first plurality of bars that are substantially in
common with the first gemstone, and into each bar of a second plurality
of bars substantially extending from the platform, spaced apart
from one another, from the first gemstone, and from the first plurality
of bars.
18. The method of claim 17, wherein: the girdle of said third gemstone
extends into at least two bars of the first plurality of bars that
are substantially in common with the first gemstone, and into one
bar of the second plurality of bars that is substantially in common
with the second gemstone.
19. The method of claim 12, further comprising the steps of: fixedly
mounting said first gemstone on a platform by the first girdle of
the gemstone substantially retained by each bar of a first plurality
of bars extending from the platform; wherein the girdle of said
second gemstone is held by at least two bars of the first plurality
of bars that are in common with the first gemstone, and the girdle
held by each bar of a second plurality of bars extends from the
platform, spaced from one another, from the first gemstone, and
from the first plurality of bars; and wherein the girdle of said
third gemstone is held by at least two bars of the first plurality
of bars that are in common with the first gemstone, and held by
one bar of the second plurality of bars that is in common with the
second gemstone.
20. A method of manufacturing a gemstone setting, said method comprising
the steps of: constructing a master model of said setting; making
a mold of the master model; injecting wax into the mold, and extracting
a hardened wax piece from the mold; at least one of: disposing a
first gemstone into a setting opening until a girdle of the gemstone
engages the recess on at least one bar; disposing a second gemstone
into a setting opening until a girdle of the gemstone engages the
recess on at least one bar; disposing a gemstone axially into a
setting opening until the gemstone at least contacts a sloped annular
wall; and disposing a gemstone axially into a setting opening until
the girdle of the gemstone is at a suitable height above a sloped
annular wall and a pavilion is spaced from an opening wall; disposing
the wax and gemstone piece into a container; adding investment material,
said investment material suitably adapted to harden; heating the
resulting assembly to about 600 degrees Celsius; eliminating the
wax from the container; injecting metal and allowing the metal to
harden; removing the molded piece from the container; and breaking
away the investment material.
Patent Description
RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent
Application Ser. No. 60/543,118 filed in the United States Patent
and Trademark Office on Feb. 9, 2004 by Shishir B. Nevatia and Kapil
S. Nevatia.
FIELD OF INVENTION
[0002] The present invention generally concerns articles of jewelry;
and more particularly, in various representative and exemplary embodiments,
to methods of mounting and retaining gemstones on articles of jewelry.
BACKGROUND
[0003] The desirability to reduce the dependence of manufacturers
of jewelry, having gems set in precious metal, on the high-priced
labor of skilled gem-setters has long been recognized. One method
utilizes a lost wax process for manufacturing jewelry by forming
a rubber mold in which a wax model is cast to accommodate the gem
and positioning the latter in the rubber mold prior to closing the
mold and injecting the wax. The wax model bearing the gem set therein
is thereafter removed from the rubber mold and encased in the investment
so that, after replacement of the wax by precious metal in accordance
with the lost wax procedure, the cast article is removed from the
investment mold with the gem preset in the metal and thereby eliminating
the step of setting the gem in cast metal.
[0004] A conventional method of melting and removing the wax model
and curing the investment mold preparatory to casting the precious
metal therein may be performed in an oven under reduced pressure
and typically involves increasing the temperature by uniform increments
to 700 degrees Celsius over 14 hours to substantially remove moisture
and provide a hard, smooth interior mold surface against which the
metal is cast. Other methods suggest that preheating or curing the
investment mold may be accomplished in as little as 4 hours at temperatures
generally not in excess of 500 degrees Celsius.
[0005] In attempting to achieve the result of eliminating the need
for a skilled gem-setter to complete the manufacture of an article
of jewelry, certain methods have been found to be inadequate in
two respects, namely: (1) in the manner the gem is set in the wax
model; and (2) the suggested procedure for curing the investment
mold prior to casting the precious metal.
[0006] As to the first inadequacy, the step of positioning the
gem as an insert in an open rubber mold and then closing the mold
with a high degree of care, so as not to displace the gem prior
to injecting the wax, has been found not only to be relatively time
consuming, but also unreliable; particularly when the jewelry design
utilizes several relatively small gems in each setting. Furthermore,
any improper positioning of the gem during the molding of the wax
model may not be apparent until after the model is removed from
the mold. Other imperfections in the wax model generally require
removal of the gems before discarding the defective model. Such
complications contribute to what is generally regarded as an unacceptable
efficiency rate at this stage of the manufacturing process.
[0007] As to the second inadequacy, by limiting the curing of the
investment material to a period of 4 hours at temperatures not in
excess of 500 degrees Celsius (generally promoted to prevent damage
to the gems now retained in the investment mold after removal of
the wax), the reduction in moisture content and hardening of the
investment material has been found to be insufficient to enable
the investment mold to withstand the injection of molten metal which
damages important areas of the mold, thereby resulting in defective
and unacceptable castings.
[0008] The prior art is replete with descriptions of jewel configurations
for holding a plurality of gemstones in a way that provides the
appearance of larger or more gemstones than are in the array. One
design fastens a plurality of gemstones around and over the edge
of the crown of a larger gemstone to give the appearance of one
large stone. This is generally visually effective, but risks damage
to the contacting edges of the gems. Accordingly, there is a need
to provide nearly the same visual effect that may be generally obtained
utilizing smaller stones while protecting the stones by holding
their edges with material that is generally softer than the gemstones.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0009] In various representative aspects, the present invention
provides a jewelry setting in which a first gemstone in an array
of gemstones is substantially retained at a girdle by fasteners
that each substantially retain the girdles of at least two other
gemstones of a plurality of gemstones that surround the first gemstone.
Advantages of the present invention will be set forth in the Detailed
Description which follows and may be obvious from the Detailed Description
or may be learned by practice of exemplary embodiments of the invention.
Still other advantages of the invention may be realized by means
of any of the instrumentalities, methods or combinations particularly
pointed out in the claims.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0010] Representative elements, operational features, applications
and/or advantages of the present invention reside in the details
of construction and operation as more fully hereafter depicted,
described and claimed--reference being made to the accompanying
drawings forming a part hereof, wherein like numerals refer to like
parts throughout. Other elements, operational features, applications
and/or advantages may become apparent in light of certain exemplary
embodiments recited in the Detailed Description, wherein:
[0011] FIG. 1 generally illustrates a front view of a gemstone
or jewel in accordance with a representative and exemplary embodiment
of the present invention;
[0012] FIG. 2 generally depicts a front and top perspective view
of a jewelry apparatus in accordance with a representative and exemplary
embodiment of the present invention;
[0013] FIG. 3 generally illustrates a top schematic view of the
jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2, in accordance with
a representative and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;
[0014] FIG. 4 generally illustrates a front and top perspective
view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2 without
the gemstones, in accordance with a representative and exemplary
embodiment of the present invention;
[0015] FIG. 5 generally illustrates a cross-section schematic view
of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 3 containing
only the center stone (taken along 5-5), in accordance with a representative
and exemplary embodiment of the present invention;
[0016] FIG. 6 generally illustrates a front and top perspective
view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2 containing
only the center stone, in accordance with a representative and exemplary
embodiment of the present invention;
[0017] FIG. 7 generally illustrates a front view of a portion of
the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 3 (taken along
and confined to 7-7), in accordance with a representative and exemplary
embodiment of the present invention;
[0018] FIG. 8 generally illustrates a cross-section schematic view
of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 3 containing
the center stone, two side stones that are forward of the center
stone, the front side stone not shown (the stones not in cross-section,
taken along 8-8), in accordance with a representative and exemplary
embodiment of the present invention; and
[0019] FIG. 9 generally illustrates a front and top perspective
view of the jewelry apparatus generally depicted in FIG. 2 containing
the center stone and side stones (taken at the same angle of view
as generally depicted in FIG. 6), in accordance with a representative
and exemplary embodiment of the present invention.
[0020] Elements in the Figures are illustrated for simplicity and
clarity and have not necessarily been drawn to scale. For example,
the dimensions of some of the elements in the Figures may be exaggerated
relative to other elements to help improve understanding of various
embodiments of the present invention. Furthermore, the terms "first",
"second", and the like herein, if any, are generally used
for distinguishing between similar elements and not necessarily
for describing a sequential or chronological order. Moreover, the
terms "front", "back", "top", "bottom",
"over", "under", and the like, if any, are generally
employed for descriptive purposes and not necessarily for comprehensively
describing exclusive relative position or order. Any of the preceding
terms so used may be interchanged under appropriate circumstances
such that various embodiments of the invention described herein,
for example, are capable of operation in orientations and environments
other than those explicitly illustrated or otherwise described.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENTS
[0021] The following descriptions are of exemplary embodiments
of the invention and the inventors' conception of the best mode
and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability or configuration
of the invention in any way. Rather, the following description is
intended to provide convenient illustrations for implementing various
embodiments of the invention. As will become apparent, changes may
be made in the function and/or arrangement of any of the elements
described in the disclosed exemplary embodiments without departing
from the spirit and scope of the invention.
[0022] As generally depicted in FIG. 1, gemstone 20 typically comprises
table 24, crown 26, girdle 28, pavilion 30, culet 32, upper facets
34 above the girdle, and lower facets 36 below the girdle.
[0023] With reference to FIGS. 2 and 3, center gemstone 40 and
six side gemstones 20 may be mounted on platform 44 of apparatus
50. Gemstone 40 is generally larger than gemstone 20.
[0024] With reference to FIGS. 2-8, girdle 52 of gemstone 40 generally
extends substantially radially outward from axis 54 into substantially
radially inward open recesses 56 in bars 58, which generally extend
vertically from platform 44. Recesses 56 may be optionally shaped
complimentary to the girdle so that they closely fit the girdle.
Walls 60, 62 are generally angled to fit portions of the crown and
pavilion so that walls 60, 62 on the six bars 58 substantially retain
gemstone 40 and prevent removal of stone 40 from the platform and
rattling of the stone 40 on the platform.
[0025] Bars 58 may be optionally unitary and/or molded in one piece
with platform 44. In a preferred representative embodiment of the
present invention, recess 56 generally positions the stone so that
the coulet and lower portion of the pavilion generally extends into
opening 68 that generally extends through platform 44, and the pavilion
is typically concentric and in effective contact with sloped annular
wall 66 and is suitably spaced from cylindrical wall 70 of opening
68 in platform 44. This may be more easily seen, for example, in
FIG. 5, where wall 62 of recess 56 is substantially continuous on
a straight line with sloped annular wall 66.
[0026] In another arrangement, in which bar 58 is spaced substantially
radially outward from sloped annular wall 66, wall 62 of the groove
is substantially discontinuous with sloped annular wall 66 so that
the pavilion of the stone effectively contacts walls 62 and is suitably
spaced from wall 66.
[0027] Each gemstone 20 may be generally mounted on the platform
in the same way as the other gemstones 20. For brevity, the instant
description generally refers to one gemstone 20 mounting, but may
be suitably adapted to provide a system and method for the mounting
of a plurality of gemstones.
[0028] Girdle 28 of gemstone 20 generally extends substantially
radially outward from axis 72 into recesses 76 in two bars 58, and
generally extends substantially radially outward from axis 72 into
recesses 78 in two bars 80. Bars 80 may be preferably unitary and/or
molded in one piece with platform 44. Recesses 78, walls 82, 84
and the walls of recess 76 may be preferably suitably angled substantially
parallel to portions of the crown and pavilion so that they closely
fit the girdle. Recess 76 and 78 generally retain the stone and
prevent rattling and removal of gemstone 20 from the platform.
[0029] Bar 58, comprising at least two recesses 76, may be spaced
100 substantially radially outward from sloped annular wall 96 of
opening 94. Bar 80 may be disposed at the edge of sloped annular
wall 96. The depths of grooves may be varied so that the gemstone
is generally retained by the grooves substantially concentric with
opening 94 that generally extends through platform 44 and is suitably
spaced from cylindrical wall 98 of opening 94.
[0030] As generally depicted, for example in FIG. 8, girdles 28
and 52 may be configured for disposition in the same plane 104.
Table 106 of gemstone 40 may be generally higher than tables 24
of gemstones 20. Gemstone 40 generally extends lower in cavity 108
formed by opening 68 and the stone, than gemstones 20 in cavities
110 fanned by openings 94 and gemstones 20.
[0031] With reference now to FIG. 3, looking at the top of apparatus
50 having the stones mounted, one can see bars 58. Each stone is
generally retained so that it may not be removed regardless of how
many stones or which other stone is mounted on the platform.
[0032] With reference to FIG. 7, viewing the cluster of mounted
gemstones from one side, outer gemstone and bars 80 and 58 are apparent.
Each bar 58 typically retains a portion of the center stone and
portions of at least two outer stones.
[0033] In a preferred exemplary and representative embodiment,
the platform and bars containing the stones may comprise precious
metal. Such precious metals may generally include, but are not necessarily
limited to: gold, platinum, silver, and combinations thereof. One
bar, or any number of bars 58 and 80, may be mounted on the platform
by pinning, brazing, screwing or such other methods now known, or
otherwise hereafter described, in the art for fastening a bar to
a platform. Fasteners including clips and prongs that can grip more
than one gemstone around a substantially vertical axis of the fastener
may also be used to at least partially retain tile gemstones in
the arrangements described vide supra. The tops of the bars or fasteners
may be tinted or highly polished so that they reflect light and
enhance the radiance of the gemstone.
[0034] A preferred representative and exemplary method for making
an apparatus in accordance with the present invention generally
includes the steps of:
[0035] a. constructing a master model of the apparatus less gemstones;
[0036] b. making a rubber mold of the master model;
[0037] c. injecting wax into the rubber mold, and extracting the
hardened wax piece from the rubber mold;
[0038] d. disposing gemstone 40 into opening 68 until girdle 52
of the stone engages recesses 56 on bars 58;
[0039] e. disposing the six other stones 20 into openings 94 until
girdle 28 of the stone engages recesses 76 of two bars 58, and recesses
78 of two bars 80;
[0040] f: putting the entire wax and stone piece into a container
and adding investment material which hardens;
[0041] g. heating to about 600 degrees Celsius, eliminating the
wax from the container;
[0042] h. injecting metal, allowing the metal to harden, removing
the molded piece from the container, and breaking away the investment
material.
[0043] In another representative and exemplary method for making
apparatus 50, one may omit the recesses which could be introduced
by the master model, or which could be cut in the wax piece, and
using a wax that is resilient, replace steps d, and e, with:
[0044] i. disposing the gemstones substantially axially into openings
68 and 94 until the stones contact the sloped annular wall.
[0045] In another representative and exemplary method for making
apparatus 50, one may omit the recesses which could be introduced
by the master model, or which could be cut in the wax piece, and,
using a wax that is resilient, replace steps d, and e with:
[0046] j. disposing the gemstones substantially axially into openings
68 and 94 until the girdle of the stone is at some predetermined
height range above the sloped annular wall, and the pavilion is
suitably spaced from the opening wall.
[0047] In yet another exemplary and representative method for making
apparatus 50, the piece may be cast in metal without synthetic gems,
and the gems engaged into recesses 56, 76 and 78 on the cleaned
and polished piece.
[0048] In the foregoing specification, the invention has been described
with reference to specific exemplary embodiments; however, it will
be appreciated that various modifications and changes may be made
without departing from the scope of the present invention as set
forth in the claims below. The specification and Figures are to
be regarded in an illustrative manner, rather than a restrictive
one and all such modifications are intended to be included within
the scope of the present invention. Accordingly, the scope of the
invention should be determined by the claims appended hereto and
their legal equivalents rather than by merely the examples described
above. For example, the steps recited in any method or process claims
may be executed in any order and are not limited to the specific
order presented in the claims. Additionally, the components and/or
elements recited in any device claims may be assembled or otherwise
operationally configured in a variety of permutations to produce
substantially the same result as the present invention and are accordingly
not limited to the specific configuration recited in the claims.
[0049] Benefits, other advantages and solutions to problems have
been described above with regard to particular embodiments; however,
any benefit, advantage, solution to problems or any element that
may cause any particular benefit, advantage or solution to occur
or to become more pronounced are not to be construed as critical,
required or essential features or components of any or all the claims.
[0050] As used herein, the terms "comprises", "comprising",
or any variation thereof, are intended to reference a non-exclusive
inclusion, such that a process, method, article, composition or
apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only
those elements recited, but may also include other elements not
expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, composition
or apparatus. Other combinations and/or modifications of the above-described
structures, arrangements, applications, proportions, elements, materials
or components used in the practice of the present invention, in
addition to those not specifically recited, may be varied or otherwise
particularly adapted by those skilled in the art to specific environments,
manufacturing specifications, design parameters or other operating
requirements without departing from the general principles of the
same.
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